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A SUMMER IN ENGLAND 






i JUL 97 



FOURTH EDITION 
\Z96 



R SUMMER IN ENGLAND 



WITH A CONTINENTAL SUPPLEMENT 



A HAND-BOOK FOR THE USE OF AMERICAN WOMEN 

^S*^ PUBLISHED EY THE 

WOMEN'S REST TOUR ASSOCIATION 



264 BOYLSTON STREET BOSTON MASS. 




| .--•< ■ -"■r 


BOSTON 


JUL27W3 


»n Press : Thomas Todd, Printer, 


1 Somerset Street 


1896, 





a. 
^36 7 9 ?P~ 



Copyright 1896* by Women's Rest Tour Association 



WOMEN'S REST TOUR ASSOCIATION. 



THE LIBRARY 
or CONGRESS 

WASHINGTON 



LIST OF OFFICERS, 1896. 

President. 
Mrs. JULIA WARD HOWE. 



^ 

/ 



Directors. 
Mrs. Frederick L. Ames. Mrs. James T. Fields. Miss Ellen F. Mason. 

Treasurer. 
Miss Lucia M. Peabody. 

Secretaries. 
Miss Anna C. Murdock. Miss Maria G. Reed. 

Editors. 
Miss Alice Brown. Miss Louise Imogen Guiney. 

All inquiries concerning the Association should be addressed to the Secretaries, 264 
Bpylston St., Boston, Mass. 



A 



.CONTENTS. 



PACE 

Introduction 5 

Preparation .6 

At Sea 8 

Travelling 11 

Lodgings 15 

Expenses 16 

Money 18 

Custom-House Duties 20 

Steamship Lines 23 

Tours 28 

Some Hints about London 33 

Periods of English Architecture 39 

County Scale of Beauty and Interest 40 

The Hero- Worshipper's Calendar 42 

Gala Days 47 

Social Customs 50 

English Universities 54 

International Differences 57 

Bibliography 62 

CONTINENTAL SUPPLEMENT. 

Across the Channel 70 

Bibliography • 75 

Gala Days 89 

3 



This royal throne of kings, this scepter'd isle, 

This other Eden, demi-paradise; 
This fortress, built by nature for herself, 
Against infection and the hand of war ; 
This happy breed of men, this little world, 
This precious stone set in the silver sea, 

This blessed plot, thi» earth, this realm, thia England. —Richard II. 



A SUMMER IN ENGLAND. 



" Bring us where we may rest ourselves." — As You Like It. 

The Women's Rest Tour Association was formed, in the spring of 1891, with the design 
of helping, with advice and encouragement, women who might enjoy a vacation abroad 
if they but knew how cheaply it can be accomplished, and how easy the paths of travel 
may be made by confidence and common-sense. The present organization is one of mutual 
help and good-will. It is in no sense a charitable institution, but one which desires chiefly 
to encourage independent effort; it serves as a bureau, to which women who have 
travelled may bring the results of their study and observation for the enriching of others, 
and where the timorous or inexperienced may apply for aid. It is a common complaint 
that the needs and abundance of life cannot be brought together ; in the matter of 
woman's travelling, the Rest Tour Association aims at acting as a medium between 
demand and supply by stepping into the place of confidential friend and adviser to women 
tourists. 

The Association furnishes its members with a list of accredited lodgings, both in Great 
Britain and on the Continent, supplies them with all its publications, and registers the 
names of those who desire to act as chaperons abroad and are fitted for such a position. 
Those who wish to form parties for a trip may, on applying to the secretaries, be 
introduced to other women of like plans and desires, if such have made similar application. 
Candidates for membership must be indorsed by two members of the Association. The 
entrance fee (covering the annual clues for that year) is two dollars. The annual fee is 
one dollar. 

5 



Members are, of course, expected to keep a constant outlook for the good of the Asso- 
ciation ; but we ask also the kindly offices of the general public who may buy this book. 
If any woman not a member find the slightest benefit in these suggestions, if she feel 
even a lukewarm interest in our scheme, will she not help us with hints or solid informa- 
tion, obtained either from her study at home or life abroad? Let her remember that her 
one little contribution, either of money or ideas, may do incalculable good, and that even 
a slight blow may forge one link in the "girdle round the earth "of love and human 
kindliness. 

The Association for the present confines its scheme of operations chiefly to England, 
for the reason that this is the land where, undisturbed by the difficulties of a foreign 
tongue, and among a kindred people, the American can be most certain to live idyllic 
days. As some one has cleverly said, England may not actually be "home" to the 
younger civilizations which are its offshoots, but " it contains all the title-deeds." 
Every foot of ground has, indeed, its uncounted memories; almost every name is 
instinct with historic interest. Acid to such intellectual charms the fact that, in summer, 
the climate is full of a sweet serenity, the days long, melting into a soft twilight, the 
scenery rich in beauty, and that the daily life flows like a quiet stream, and one who has 
never set foot in this gracious motherland may guess what its soothing influence must 
be. Even in busy London, the mental atmosphere has a quality absolutely different from 
the insane hurry and bustle of life in an American city ; there, also, it is possible to find 
a lotus-eater's paradise, where she may truly rest, feeding the eye on pictures, the mind 
with memories. 

PREPARATION. 

" Provide us all things necessary." — Henry IV. 
" I will bethink me." — Merchant of Venice. 

Take for travelling a new, stout, plain, and pretty dress ; new, that you may have no 
stitches to set, at some moment when time is most precious ; plain, that there may be no 
folds or ruffles for harboring dust. If any woman questions the need of beauty in such a 

6 



serviceable gown, let her remember that the consciousness of being well and appropri- 
ately dressed will double the pleasure of her trip. Take, besides, a dress of India silk, 
camel's-hair, or cashmere, which can be packed in small compass. For economy of 
room, however, a silk waist may be taken instead, which, with the travelling skirt, will 
serve very well for table d'hote or the theatre. Three changes of underwear, plainly and 
simply made, will be sufficient, as washing is everywhere done promptly, and at a low 
price. 

An English summer has a large proportion of rainy days, but the rain falls so gently 
that it need not bar outdoor pleasures, if one is properly dressed for the weather. 
With a light waterproof, and a plain hat that will bear wetting, the traveller will be 
far happier than if always compelled to put up an umbrella. Some of the loveliest days 
for long walks are those made up of alternate sun and soft shower, in quick succession. 

The summer temperature of England is not as torrid as that of New England, and 
thin cotton dresses are by no means a necessity. You will find much damp walking. 
Provide an extra pair of thick boots ; if you cannot dispense with rubbers — which many 
persons find uncomfortable for extended walks — remember that our thin, light variety 
is not easily procured in Great Britain. English women have a preference for low shoes 
and gaiters, which are certainly very comfortable for long tramps. 

Take a little "housewife "of sewing materials, plenty of pins and safety-pins, ruching, 
a small portfolio of stationery, a notebook, stylographic pen, rubber screw-top inkstand, 
and folding drinking-cup. A small alcohol travelling lamp (for which you will buy 
"methylated spirits" in England) may prove a great comfort. These articles can be 
easily compassed by a twenty-two-inch valise of canvas or leather. A valise or steamer 
trunk is needed for use on board. It should be low enough to fit under the berth or sofa. 
All baggage not intended for stateroom use is marked " Hold," and cannot be reached 
during the voyage. This stateroom baggage, containing your steamer clothes and extra 
wraps, rugs, etc., can be left on board, plainly labelled with your name, and will be 
stored for you at the office of the steamship company, to be obtained by the payment of 
a small fee, on sailing for home. When the date and boat for your return are decided 
upon, you can order the things put on board, but, if you have time on the day of sailing, 

7 



a call with a cab at the company's office will guard against any risk of mistake, as bag- 
gage has sometimes been found on the wrong ship. 

The most convenient way to carry letter of credit, extra gold, return ticket, and any 
small valuables, is in a pocket in the petticoat. Hook or safety-pin it together ; you will 
find this method much more convenient than wearing a bag around your neck or sewing 
it into your dress ; it is, moreover, quite as safe. 

Unless you are subject to some special form of illness, do not burden yourself with 
many bottles, but carry such prescriptions as are suggested by common-sense, and have 
the remedies put up when required. 

In addition to the portmanteau, a convenient envelope for wraps and general over- 
flow is a canvas, leather-bound "hold-all," an English contrivance which will roll up 
small and tight when not filled, and yet, under persuasion, expand to enormous size. Um- 
brellas can be put into it with the wraps. A good home-made substitute for this, though 
not so firm nor so trig in appearance, is a yard and a half of gossamer cloth, which can 
be wrapped about a bundle, hiding the contents from sight, and protecting them from 
dust and rain. A shawl-strap will be necessary for carrying such a bundle or roll of 
wraps. 

AT SEA. 

" Now sits the wind fair and we will aboard." — Henry V. 

Select your steamship line early. When choosing your stateroom, avoid those next 
the water-closets, for no system of ventilation on board ship can be perfect, and even the 
frequent banging of the doors, in some steamers, is very trying to irritated nerves. 
Staterooms amidships have less motion from the sea than those further aft, but in the 
former the jar of the engines is more perceptible. Kemember, in selecting your room, 
that the steamer has its sunny side, and that, in rough weather, a room on the same side 
with the ladies' cabin is more convenient. A room near the companion-way is likely to 
be well supplied with fresh air, as there is generally a draught down the stairs from open 
doors above. If you intend returning on the same line of steamers, you can get lower 
rates by purchasing return tickets. 

8 



,! Three in a stateroom " means one upon the sofa. When four occupy one room, an 
extra berth is put up above the sofa, thereby shutting out all air and most of the light 
from the port-hole ; the latter number is to be avoided, unless economy imperatively de- 
mands it, and all four occupants are good sailors. 

Do not be beguiled by those who would have you economize by wearing out yonr old 
clothes on board. Plain, simple, and comfortable attire you must have, but, if you are to 
thoroughly enjoy the voyage, forswear shabbiness. If you occupy on the steamer any- 
thing above the position of absolute invalid, you will be assisting, much of the time, at a 
sort of mild festivity, and, unless entirely lacking in the natural feminine desire to look 
your best, you will then deeply regret masquerading as a guy. Some persons recommend 
the after use of the steamer dress in travelling ; but, even though you have a particularly 
favorable voyage, you will be glad to leave all your sea clothes in the steamer trunk, not 
to be used again until the return trip. Wear a simply-made serge or tweed dress ; these 
materials bear wetting, and do not wrinkle badly. A plain, partly-worn, winter street- 
dress will answer the purpose very well. The waist should be made in a fashion which 
will promote ease and comfort. It should fasten easily, with few hooks or buttons, and 
no pins. A ruche sewed into neck and sleeves will keep fresh a long time aboard ship, 
and be a help towards dressing without trouble, when motion is an effort. The stewardess 
will sew in another, if you are not equal to the exertion. Another easy way of finishing 
one's costume is to tie a silk kerchief or lace scarf about the neck. 

Warm underclothing, thick hose, and warm gloves are needed, even in a summer pas- 
sage. Flannel knickerbockers are more convenient than thick petticoats. Unless the 
dress is very heavy, an ulster will be needed to keep the skirts from blowing about, 
during a windy walk on deck. A hood, soft felt hat, or cloth cap is a necessity. Kemem- 
ber that boots are conspicuous objects when one arranges herself in a steamer chair, but 
do not wear thin ones, as the decks are often damp. When planning your garments, 
keep constantly in mind the fact that, if you are feeling ill, an addition of five minutes to 
the time devoted to dressing may make the difference between staying all day in your 
stuffy stateroom and rejoicing in the fresh air on deck. To get on deck is worth a great 
effort ; go up as early as you can, and stay, if it is not too cold. Your meals can be 

9 



brought up, and you will find that eating can be accomplished there -which would be an 
impossibility down in the saloon. If inclined to sea-sickness, do not indulge in soups or 
sweets, but confine yourself to simple solids, like beef, bread, and potatoes. If you want 
something to take in the morning, before you dare stir, beef peptonoids (the Arlington 
Chemical Company's preparation is a good one) may prove very acceptable, and are 
easily prepared, needing only a cup of hot water and a pinch of salt from the cabin 
steward. As the ''Satchel Guide" suggests, in the case of sea-sickness, "Console 
yourself (if you can) with the reflection that, though the malady is incurable, it never 
proves fatal." If your physician can recommend a preventive, try it, remembering that 
it may prove efficacious in your case, though there is no universal and sovereign remedy. 
The stewardesses are excellent nurses, and know exactly what to do when the dragon 
actually has you in its clutch ; but, by observing a few simple precautions, you may be 
able to do without their services. Try to begin the voyage in a serene frame of mind ; 
do not get overtired in preparation. Resolve that you will not be ill, as the malady is 
always greatly aggravated by nervousness, or lack of nerve. Go on deck whenever you 
can crawl there ; fresh air is the best of tonics. Keep the feet and stomach warm ; some 
persons wear, for warmth, a thick paper over the stomach. Keep the bowels open, and 
avoid fatiguing the eyes. Do not watch moving or swaying objects; rather, when the 
eyes are not closed, look far out to sea. Provide yourself with a pair of colored glasses, 
even if you do not ordinarily need them. 

A steamer chair and travelling rug are absolutely indispensable. The chair will cost 
from two dollars and fifty cents to five dollars. It should be marked with your name or 
initials. Marking is usually done gratis by the dealer from whom you buy. It is a good 
plan to tie a colored string or bit of ribbon on your chair, unless it is marked both on the 
back and front. Some of the steamship lines have a limited number of steamer chairs to 
be let for the voyage, but the safest and pleasantest way is to have one of your own. 

A warm shawl may be of use, in addition to the travelling rugs, and a little down 
cushion is a great comfort both in the steamer chair and for supplementing a hard state- 
room pillow. Take a loose flannel wrapper, worsted bed-shoes, and a rubber hot-water 
bag. A flat toilet bag, with several compartments, can be tacked on the stateroom wall. 

10 



Make for the hot-water bag a loose, square cover or bag of some bright bit of cloth, and 
then that exceedingly comforting but ungainly object can be taken on deck, on a cold day, 
and held in the lap. 

One traveller mentions the convenience she found in having a cloth shopping-bag, in 
which she could carry on deck books, writing materials, or any articles she was likely to 
need during the day. Having hung this delightful " hold-all " on the arm of her deck 
chair, she could enjoy her day with a tranquil mind, undisturbed by the necessity of mak- 
ing tiresome trips below. It is well to take a calico or cheese-cloth curtain to hang at the 
stateroom door. It is impossible to sleep with closed doors, and often embarrassing to 
be without a screen. If one has neglected to provide such a curtain, the stewardess may 
be able to rig one by means of a sheet and a string. 

Unless you are sure of being " a good sailor," it is the wisest plan to unpack your 
trunk immediately after going on board ; hang or tack up your bags, arrange everything 
in the drawers and on the shelves, put on your warm sea-going clothes, and get gener- 
ally settled, for fear you may feel wnsettled before you are prepared for it. The steward 
in charge of the dining-saloon will be found in that room, on sailing, with a chart of the 
seats. Apply to him, if you have not previously done so by letter, for a seat at table. If 
you have any fear of sea-sickness, avoid the wall seats, as (with the exception of the end 
ones) they are not easily vacated in a hurry. During a rough passage, it is very conven. 
ient, if you occupy the saloon floor, to have a seat on the same side of the ship with your 
stateroom. 

TRAVELLING. 

"For now I am in a holiday humour." — A$ You Like II. 
" I would entreat thy company to see the wonders of the world abroad." — Two Gentlemen of Verona- 

Each person added to the number of a party increases the chance of inharmonious- 
ness in an alarming ratio ; but, when selected with a view to tastes and temperament, four 
will prove an excellent number for travelling. A double-bedded room is frequently much 
cheaper than two single ones, and the cost of a carriage for four is hardly more than for 
two. In making up a party, it is very necessary that the plans for the trip should, if pos- 

11 



sible, be thoroughly discussed and decided upon in advance. While travelling, one mem- 
ber of the party should take charge of all the arrangements, the office holding through 
the day, week, or month, as may be decided best. 

To remain a week or a fortnight in a place is not only to find rest and true enjoyment, 
but also to secure the lowest rates in lodging houses and inns. 

Determine to carry but little baggage (Anglice, luggage). Travel as much as possi- 
ble with hand baggage only. There are so many porters, even in country stations, that 
ladies may use far heavier portmanteaus and parcels than would be expedient in America. 
Remember that baggage is not checked, and must be identified by the owner when she 
alights from the train at her destination, or for change of cars (carriages) . She must 
also see that it is labelled and put on board, at the beginning of each journey. Trunks 
(boxes) should be marked, as plainly as possible, with names or initials; some people 
even save themselves trouble in identifying by having a distinct mark — like a cross or 
star — placed conspicuously on each piece, in bright paint. Anything which is sent in the 
luggage-van will have pasted on it a label printed with the name of its destination. If, in 
the case of portmanteaus and bags, these labels are considered disfiguring, one can prevent 
their use by providing a large, stout tag, and asking the porter to stick his label on that. 

Always travel third-class on the railway, and first-class on boats. In the case of an 
extended journey of several days, the lowest rates may be obtained by buying a third- 
class excursion or round-trip ticket, and paying the difference, when on a boat, between 
first and third-class fares. 

Baggage may be left at any railway station in the cloak-room or "left-luggage" 
room, and checked for twopence a day. At the railway stations of the larger towns 
there is usually a " town porter" to be found who, if your destination is within walking 
distance, and you have hand baggage only, will probably carry it more cheaply than you 
and it could go by 'bus or carriage. 

The tops of 'buses and trams, though not haunts of fashion, are, even in London and 
Edinburgh, sufficiently proper for Americans, as they are for all respectable " middle- 
class" people. They furnish the best possible vantage-ground from which to obtain a 
general view of suburban scenery or city streets. 

12 



If, while travelling, you purchase articles for which you have no present use, and 
which would be inconvenient to carry, make them up into a secure parcel, label it carefully 
with your own name, and send it to the office of the steamship company on whose line 
you propose returning. 

Always try to arrive at a new place an hour or two before dark, unless you are going 
to a hotel, or have previously, by correspondence, made arrangements for lodging. 
Leave your luggage at the station, ask your way to the houses you have in mind, or in- 
quire at a shop — stationer's, chemist's, or pastry-cook's — for clean and respectable 
lodgings. Over shops of various sorts are frequently found rooms which will amply 
satisfy all reasonable and modest requirements. In England, even very humble dwellings 
are likely to contain clean beds and well-swept floors. The vergers of cathedrals are 
often able to suggest desirable addresses. Having found your rooms, come to a definite 
understanding as to price. In the case of an inn, only engage lodgings, and do not bind 
yourself to take table cVhote, especially in the case of dinner ; it is more expensive than a 
plain cut from the joint, or chops, and generally less satisfactory. At inns where table 
d'hote is given, it is not always easy to avoid it, unless you order meals at an entirely 
different hour. The people of the house will usually find some one to go for your luggage 
(at an inn, this will be the duty of the " boots ") ; in case of lodgings where they cannot 
arrange it for you, find a carriage or porter at the station. 

Tor those who are fitted for it, nothing can be more ideal than a walking trip. A 
pedestrian has the advantage of the ordinary traveller, both in point of economy and 
facilities for leisurely acquaintance with land and people; moreover, the daily healthful 
exercise and life in the open air inevitably result in serenity of mind and increased 
bodily vigor. The record of walking tours for the last few years — through Scotland, 
the English Lake District, Wales, Germany, and Switzerland, — shows that women may 
undertake them with perfect ease and propriety. So, you who would live long and happy 
days near to Nature's heart, get into light marching order, send your portmanteau on in 
advance, fall into step with one or more companions of a cheerful spirit and equable 
temper, and then 

13 



" jog on the foot-path way, 
And merrily hent the etile-a." 

The outfit for a walking tour should include a light woollen Norfolk jacket or pleated 
waist, with leather belt, a skirt, rather shorter than the ordinary sensible street dress 
(to be made still shorter, on occasion, by the use of large safety-pins) , a soft, dark felt hat 
or Tarn o' Shanter, and easy walking boots, or (what English women generally choose) , low 
shoes and gaiters. In Switzerland, the boots must be furnished with nails, for climbing. 
A divided skirt (gray mohair, or some light-weight stuff) should be the only petticoat worn, 
and the combination undersuit is preferably of silk or light-weight wool. Stockings 
should be of fine woollen (to prevent blisters), and the gloves, chamois or Biarritz. 

The " pack " consists of a light waterproof, rolled very small, and a knapsack; as to 
the latter, one twelve inches wide, eleven high, and three across has been proved a con- 
venient size. This will contain the necessary toilet articles, a second suit of underwear, 
an extra pair of stockings and gloves, and a drinking-cup. Articles for general use, 
such as vaseline, thread and needles, safety-pins, postal cards, a whisk broom, a map of 
the neighborhood, guide-book, soap, and a package of sweet chocolate, maybe distributed 
among the members of the party. The knapsack, when filled, should not and need not 
weigh four pounds. In place of the knapsack, some pedestrians recommend a pouch 
suspended by a strap from the shoulder. The weight can then be shifted, from time to 
time. To reduce weight, it is well to cut out the, section of Baedeker to be used during 
the trip ; if a part of the margin is left in the binding, the leaves may be replaced, after 
a fashion. A harness-maker will provide the belt with strong hooks (such as are often 
used by members of the Appalachian Club), to which a sketch-book, flower-press, drink- 
ing-cup, waterproof, and other " portable property " may be attached. Arrange your 
outfit before you leave America. It has been proved difficult to obtain just the right sort 
of knapsack abroad. An umbrella is a luxury rather than a necessity. 



U 



LODGINGS. 

" Shall I not take mine ease in mine inn? " — Henry IV, 

The phrase " living in lodgings " bears, in England, a significance for which America 
has no precise equivalent. In engaging lodgings, yon may specify having meals served 
by the landlady in your rooms, or you may get your meals outside. In the former case, 
you will be charged for rooms, attendance, kitchen fire, clean linen, lights, and bed-room 
or sitting-room fire. When the term " inclusive " is used, it indicates that all these items 
are included within the specified price; " exclusive " means that the price pertains to 
rooms only, and that the other items will be charged by themselves. You may do your 
own marketing, or the landlady will do it for you. She will buy what you wish, and 
serve it when you order ; your bill will contain a list of the articles purchased. It is often 
convenient, when sight-seeing, to have only the breakfast and evening meal at home. 
Luncheon may be had at bake-shops or pastry-cooks', where one can almost always find 
milk, bread and butter, meat-pies, cold meat, and fruit. The " Aerated Bread" shops 
in London furnish a delicious light lunch, at moderate prices. Never neglect the mid- 
day meal. Always carry a few tablets of sweet chocolate or some Albert biscuits, for 
solacing a hungry moment, and thus preventing headache and irritability. 

Baedeker gives the lists of inns in each town in the order of their excellence ; their 
prices are consequently likely to correspond. The economical traveller will do well to 
select one at or near the end of the list; those designated as " unpretending " are gener- 
ally sufficiently satisfactory, and moderate in charges. The " commercial hotel " is likely 
to be good and not too dear. The fact that a hotel is " temperance " need not particularly 
recommend it to the non-drinking tourist, for its licensed neighbor is not usually con- 
ducted on any principle which will make it disagreeable for the patronage of ladies. 
The bar, in England, at least, is generally an open and decent affair, presided over by the 
landlady or a trim barmaid ; it is a centre of local gossip and social intercourse, rather 
than one of revelling. 

Never be afraid or ashamed to ask questions. Policemen are universally kind, and a 
chemist often proves a mine of local information. In fact, the English people generally 

15 



seem glad to be of use to their American cousins ; only, in the case of the rural popula- 
tion, they must be given a moment to think, before answering a question. Like Tatty- 
coram, they often seem to find it advisable to " count five-and-twenty " before committing 
themselves. 

EXPENSES. 

«' Poor and content is rich, and rich enough."— Othello. 

By constantly exercising a careful economy, avoiding inns, and settling for a week or 
more in a place, the traveller may keep her expenses below two dollars a day. For three 
dollars, one should be able to travel quite rapidly, and take the occasional indulgence of a 
carriage drive. 

During the past year, many actual estimates of expenses have been submitted to the 
Association by women who have travelled in Great Britain unattended, save by other 
women as inexperienced as themselves. The parties have varied in number from two to 
six (in the latter case, expenses are, of course, appreciably lessened), and the character of 
the tours varies from that of the ambitious and hurried sight-seer, to such as delight the 
leisurely loiterer, content to hasten very slowly. In all instances, however, they agree 
in proving the above estimate to be a reasonable one. It is true, as the guide-books 
declare, that ?iving is more expensive in England than on the Continent, but, on the other 
hand, the American traveller, unhampered by a foreign tongue, can, in England, make 
better bargains ; she may also venture into humbler lodgings, undismayed by the possi- 
bility of uncleanliness, or even lack of respectability. 

Of course, methods of economy differ with the character of the persons involved. 
Some, dreading the voyage, insist upon a spacious stateroom, and sedulously economize 
on fees and other incidentals, while others travel very humbly, to choose better hotel 
accommodations than are strictly necessary. The greater number of those with whom we 
are in correspondence have, however, been content with a sixty-dollar passage, and have 
almost exclusively used lodgings rather than hotels. They have given modest fees, limited 
themselves to third-class railway travel, and apparently set their faces against the tempta- 
tion to rush from place to place. 

16 



At least twenty-five dollars in gold and silver should be taken for steamer fees and 
for use on landing, that a visit to the bankers need not begin the first chapter of life 
abroad. Familiarize yourself thoroughly with this money before landing. This prelim- 
inary study will save you much inconvenience, and perhaps prevent your being cheated 
during the first days ashore. 

Teeing is an established custom in England, as well as on the Continent; it would, 
indeed, be difficult to find a liveried official so pompous and dignified that one need hesi- 
tate in offering him the nimble shilling. Remember, however, that Americans have the 
reputation of feeing too lavishly, and that each case of over-payment renders more disa- 
greeable the situation of other travellers of modest means. "Please," in asking a service, 
and " Thank you," on receiving it, are far more common than in America; do not forget 
such courteous observances, often worth more than a gift of money. 

Fees on board ship differ somewhat with the line by which one travels. On the larger 
and more luxurious boats, frequented by the rich, more generous fees are expected than 
on the less pretentious ones. The liberal rates (on board a Cunarder, for example) 
are : ten shillings to the stewardess (in the case of gentlemen, the steward) ; ten shillings 
to the steward, table or deck, who serves your meals ; a shilling to the sailor who arranges 
and, at the end of the voyage, ties up the steamer chairs. These sums, however, may be 
made to serve for an entire stateroom, rather than a single individual. Three, or even 
four ladies, who have not demanded an extraordinary amount of attention, need give no 
more. 

At hotels, when " attendance " is charged in the bill, it is unnecessary to do any feeing, 
unless you have asked some service outside the servants' prescribed duties. The head 
waiter, who usually presents the bill, expects a gratuity, but need not invariably receive 
it ; in case you prefer to give it, sixpence will be sufficient for a few days' stay, or one 
shilling for a week. The "boots," when not mentioned in the bill, should be given six- 
pence, or even less, for a stay of a week. If you have called on the chambermaid for 
personal services, give her sixpence or a shilling for the above-mentioned time. Carriage 
drivers expect a slight fee in addition to the tariff price ; twopence or f ourpence will 
serve. A penny or twopence will be sufficient for the porter who attends to your luggage 

17 



at the station. A party may often obtain an entire compartment by tipping the guard <* 
shilling. 

It will be easy to estimate the expense of any railway journey by remembering that 
third-class tariff is about a penny a mile. 

In cases where the price of admission to public buildings is not fixed, do not be 
afraid of giving too little. Remember that the English themselves are never ashamed of 
looking out for the pennies. 

MONEY. 

" Their festival purees." — Winter's Tale. 
Copper: 

One ha'penny . . . One cent. 

One penny Two cents. 

Small Silver: 

Threepence Six cents. 

Sixpence Twelve cents. 

One shilling Twenty-four cents. 

Large Silver: 

Two shillings, or florin* Forty-eight cents. 

Half-crown piece, or two shillings and sixpence, known as a two-and-six . Sixty cents. 

Four shillings, or double florin* Ninety-six cents. 

Crown piece, or five shillings One dollar and twenty cents. 

* Names rarely used. 

This table gives the exact relative values of the coins of the two countries ; but it is 
more convenient, as well as more customary, for an American to consider a shilling the 
full equivalent of our quarter ; and it simplifies the counting, as a two-and-six then ranks 
as sixty-two cents, a crown piece as a dollar and a quarter, etc. 

The money which exceeds a crown piece in value is to be had only in gold and in 
bank-notes. The latter, very crinkly and miraculously white, mount from five pounds 
(twenty-five dollars) to one hundred. You hear everything precious priced by guineas ; 
there is now no coin bearing that name, but a guinea means twenty-one shillings; that is, 

18 



a pound and a shilling- over. A thing which is worth two pounds, or two pounds and a 
half, will always be cited at forty and fifty shillings. Clerks are generally very ready to 
name in good American what you owe them. But if you be a prudent creature, you will 
early master the financial department of the language. The gold coin called a sovereign 
is of exactly the same commercial value as a pound bank-note. 

The two-shilling piece and the half-crown look much alike and may be confused in care- 
less hands. The four and five shilling pieces are also nearly the same size and resemble 
each other. The gold half-sovereign feels, in the dark, for all the world like a sixpence : 
verbum sap. 

Provide yourself with a leather purse having two distinct compartments, one for gold 
and one for silver. This division between the two metals will probably save you from 
the " dismal surprise" of finding that, in a moment of haste, you have given the former 
for the latter. 

If you ever wish, for any reason, to send home an American " bill " and your bankers 
be not at hand, go to Frederick Burt's office, No. 72 Cornhill, London, E. C, where 
you may buy, in exchange for the British equivalent and a few cents over, the beloved 
and greasy greenback of your native land. 

The best forms for carrying money are those of a letter of credit, or cheques on the 
London Cheque Bank. There is no difficulty in obtaining money on a letter of credit 
issued by a well-known house, even at small provincial banks not named in the printed 
list. Sometimes a small fee is charged. 

The cheques issued by the Cheque Bank are taken by many hotels and business estab- 
lishments. 

Some banking-houses only issue letters of credit in sums not less than $500; at others, 
much smaller sums may be obtained. Any banker can give detailed information on this 
subject. 

If you take out a letter of credit, your mail can be sent to the care of the bank issuing 
the letter. They will forward mail promptly, if kept informed of your changes of 
address. If you have no dealings with English banks, have your letters sent " Poste 
Restante " to the places where you are certain to be at specified -dates. Call for them at 

19 



the post-office, when you arrive. Mail will not be delivered to any one but the owner, 
without a written order. 

Passports (unnecessary in England but of use on the Continent) may be obtained by 
application to a banker (price $3), or through the " Passport Division," Department of 
State, Washington, D. C. In the latter case, write for the requisite blank, fill it out, and 
swear to it before a notary or justice of the peace, and return it to Washington, with 
one dollar in currency or postal note. The passport will then be sent you. The notary's 
fee is usually fifty cents. Americans desiring to obtain passports while in a foreign 
country must apply to the chief diplomatic representative of the United States in that 
country, or, in his absence, to the consul-general or a consul. 

The Adams Cable Codex (price twenty-five cents), 115 State Street, Boston, Mass., 
contains a list of words for telegraphing in cipher. 

Books, periodicals, printed matter and manuscript (not in the form of a personal 
letter) may be sent to America by book post, for one half penny an ounce and one half 
penny for each additional two ounces. The parcels should be open at both ends and 
tied with string. This is imperative. 

The Association will endeavor to keep a supply of English stamps (twopence-ha'penny) 
for the use of members who may wish to enclose them in English correspondence. Price, 
six cents each and postage. 

CUSTOM-HOUSE DUTIES. 

'•Keep o' the windy Bide of the law."— Twelfth Night. 

On entering port, the home-coming traveller will be called upon to " declare " such 
articles in her possession as are subject to duty. If she have nothing dutiable, she is 
required to sign an affidavit to that effect, and her luggage will afterwards be searched 
for smuggled goods. 

The woman who cannot afford to pay duty, and who is too honest to entertain the idea 
of cheating the Government, may reasonably be puzzled in deciding upon the amount of 
her purchases. She should remember, however, that the paragraph which heads the fol- 

20 



lowing free list, is subject, in individual cases, to the personal interpretation of Custom- 
House officials. Generally speaking, souvenirs of travel, if not too evidently unsuited 
to one's position in life (as evinced by her dress and other possessions), are seldom 
questioned. Gloves and photographs are the great temptations of the American in 
Europe. Any number of medium-sized photographs which are apparently a record of 
one's tour may reasonably be expected to escape challenge. As to gloves, the Govern- 
ment is disposed to be quite liberal ; two or three dozen pairs are not usually considered 
an excessive number. 

Wearing apparel (if not for sale or to be given away) which is suited to the owner's 
means and habits in life, and is ready for use without further manufacture, is free from 
duty, even though it has not actually been worn. 

The following list has been taken from the Tariff Law of 1890 : — 



Ad Valorem. 



China, porcelain, parian, bisque, earthen, and stone ware, including vases, 
statuettes, plaques, ornaments, and toys, decorated or ornamented . 

China, plain white 

Glassware . . . . . 

Stained or painted window-glass 

Watches . . . . . , . . . . ... 

Manufactures of marble 

Manufactures of metals 

Pins (hair, bonnet, shawl, etc.) 

Furniture . . 

Carpets, rugs, art squares, covers, sixty cents per square yard, and . 

Cotton cloths (valued at over fifteen cents per yard) 

Ready-made clothing and other wearing apparel, of cotton 

Ready-made clothing of india-rubber, fifty cents per pound, and 

Cotton hosiery costing over four dollars per dozen, one dollar per dozen 
and 

Linen collars and cuffs, thirty cents per dozen, and 

21 



60 per 

55 

60 

45 

25 

50 

45 

30 

35 

40 

45 

50 

50 

40 
40 



cent- 



Ai> Valorem. 

Linen wearing apparel 55 per cent. 

Embroidered or hemstitched handkerchiefs, laces, edgings, embroideries, 

trimmings, lace window curtains, of linen or cotton .... 60 

Woollen blankets, thirty-eight and one-half cents per pound, and . . 40 

Woollen dress goods, forty-four cents per pound, and .... 50 
Clothing and other wearing apparel, woollen, forty-nine and one-half 

cents per pound, and 60 

Silk clothing and other wearing apparel 60 

Laces, embroideries, handkerchiefs, silk 60 

Paper-hangings, writing and drawing paper 25 

Books, engravings, etchings, photographs, maps 25 

Brushes and brooms 40 

Feathers, down quilts, millinery ornaments 50 

Furs, dressed but unmade 20 

Fur garments 35 

Jewelry 50 

Precious stones, cut but unset 10 

Boots and shoes 25 

Gloves, not less than 50 

Umbrellas, silk or alpaca 55 

Manufactures of ivory, mother-of-pearl, and shell 40 

Paintings, statuary 15 

Smokers' articles 70 



Free List. 



Wearing apparel and other personal effects (not merchandise) of persons arriving in 
the United States. 

But this exemption shall not be held to include articles not actually in use and necessary 

22 



and appropriate for the use of such persons for the purpose of their journey and present 
comfort and convenience, or which are intended for any other person or persons, or for 
sale. 

Books in foreign languages. 

Books, engravings, and photographs more than twenty years old. 

Books for use of any college or school in the United States. 

Books and other household effects of persons or families from foreign countries, if 
actually used abroad by them not less than one year, and not intended for any other per- 
son or persons, nor for sale. 

Old coins, medals, and other collections of antiquities (the term including only such 
articles as are suitable for souvenirs or cabinet collections, and which shall have been 
produced prior to the year 1700). 

Philosophical and scientific apparatus, instruments, statuary, casts, paintings, draw- 
ings, etchings, imported for the use of any society or institution established for religious, 
scientific, educational or literary purposes, and not intended for sale. 

Specimens of natural history, botany, and mineralogy, when imported for cabinets or 
as objects of science, and not intended for sale. 



From New York : 
Guion Line to 
Cunard . 
White Star 
Anchor . 
Allan-State 
American Line 
Hamburg- American 
North-German Lloyd 



STEAMSHIP LINES. 

•'Is he well shipped?"— Othello. 



Liverpool. 

Liverpool. 

Liverpool. 

Glasgow. 

Glasgow. 

Southampton. 

Southampton. 

Southampton. 



23 



From New York: 

Atlantic Transport London. 

Wilson Line London ; Hull. 

Netherlands Boulogne; Rotterdam. 

Red Star Antwerp. 

French Line Havre. 

From Boston: 

Cunard Line Liverpool. 

Leyland Line Liverpool. 

From Montreal and Quebec: 

Allan Line Liverpool. 

Beaver Line Liverpool. 

Dominion Line Liverpool. 

PASSAGE RATES. 

Guion Line. 

Outside room, for two $ 100 $80 

Outside, for three 80 60 

Outside, for four 60 

Inside, for two and three 80 60 

Cunard Line {from New York). 

Outside, for two $175 $150 $125 $100 

Outside, for three 150 125 100 90 

Outside, for four 125 100 90 75 

Inside, for two 150 125 100 90 

Inside, for three 125 100 90 60 

Cunard Line {from Boston). 

Outside, for two $125 $100 $90 

Outside, for three 100 90 75 $60 

Outside, for four 90 75 60 

Inside, for two 60 

24 



White Star Line. 



Outside, for two 


. $175 


$150 


$125 


$100 


Outside, for three 


125 


100 


75 


90 


Outside, for four 


100 


60 


50 




Inside, for two . . 


125 


100 


75 


60 


Inside, for three 


90 


75 


60 





$75 



Anchor Line. 

Outside, for two 

Outside, for three 

Outside, for four 

Inside, for two 

Inside, for three or four (" Furnessia") 



$75 


$65 


65 


60 


55 




60 


50 


50 


45 



$60 



45 



Allan-State Line (New York to Glasgow). 



Outside, for two 


$65 




Outside, for three 


60 




Outside, for four 


55 


$45 


Inside, for two 


55 


50 


Inside, for three 


45 





American Line. 



Outside, for two . 


$175 


#150 


$125 


$110 


$105 


$90 


Outside, for three . 


140 


125 


100 


90 


80 


70 


Outside, for four . 


80 * 


70 










Inside, for two 


125 


110 


100 


80 


70 




Inside, for three 


100 


90 
25 


85 


70 







$80 



Hamburg-American Line. 
To Hamburg, Direct Service. 

Outside, for two $75 

Outside, for three 60 

Outside, for four 50 

Express steamers, via Southampton, lowest $90 each, for two in inside room, 
upwards. 

North-German Lloyd. 

Express steamers to Bremen, via Southampton, $90 each, for two in inside room, 
upwards. 

Netherlands Line. 

Outside berth $70 $65 $50 

Inside berth 60 55 45 

Red Star Line. 

Outside, for two $110 $90 $75 $60 

Outside, for three 90 75 65 

Outside, for four 75 65 50 

Inside, for two 70 60 

Inside, for three 60 

French Line. 

Outside, for two $120 

Outside, for three 100 

Outside, for four 80 

Inside, for two » 80 

Rates by " La Touraine " are higher, from $100 each, for three in inside room, 
upwards. 



Allan Line. 

Outside, for two . $100 $90 $60 

Outside, for three 90 80 60 

Outside, for four 60 50 

Inside, for two and three 75 60 50 

Leyland Line. 

Outside, for two $60 $50 $45 

Inside, for two 50 45 40 

Cattle ships. Twenty first-class passengers. No steerage. Cabins all on bridge deck. 

Dominion Line {via Rimouski and Londonderry). 

Berths $50 $60 $70 $80 

Beaver Line. 

Berths $40 $45 $50 $60 

Atlantic Transport Line. 

Outside, for two, three, and four $75 $60 $50 

Cattle ships. Sixty first-class passengers. No steerage. 

Wilson Line. 

Outside, for two and four $50 $45 

Inside, for two and four 45 40 

Cattle ships. Thirty first-class passengers. 

All above rates represent price for single adult Return tickets at about ten per cent discount, 
except for some of the lower rates. 

Passenger Agents. 
Boston : F. O. Houghton & Co., 115 State Street; John Farley & Co., 103 State Street; 
Chas. Dasey, 7 Broad Street. New York : Messrs. Falck & Co., 29 Broadway. 

27 



TOURS. 

" All places that the eye of heaven visits 
Are to a wise man ports and happy havens." — Richard II. 

The following trips are given, not as ideal either as to time or route, but as specimens 
of those actually taken by women, and found to be thoroughly delightful. Baedeker has 
many which are far more. comprehensive;* choose from his abundance. 

Thirty-eight Days. 

Liverpool, Chester, two days; Warwick, Ave (Stratford, Kenilworth, Coventry, 
Nuneaton, George Eliot country)] Oxford, two; London, four; Winchester, two; Salis- 
bury, one; Wells, one; Glastonbury, one; Bath, one; Bradford, one; London, five; Col- 
chester, one; Ipswich, one; Yarmouth, one; Norwich, one; King's Lynn, one; Peter- 
borough, one ; Boston, Lincoln, one ; York, three ; Leeds, Keighley, Ha worth (Bronte* 
country) , two ; Liverpool, one. 

Fifty-six Days. 

Southampton, one day ; Isle of Wight, five (headquarters at Ventnor) ; Winchester, 
two ; Lymc-Regis, one ; Exeter, three (Exmouth) ; Dawlish, Teignmouth, one ; Moreton- 
hampstead, Chagford, five (excursions by trap and on foot) ; drive over Dartmoor to 
Tavistock, Plymouth, two ; Falmouth, one ; coach to Helston, and The Lizard, Helston, 
one; Penzance, four (Land's End, St. Michael's Mount, and St. Ives); New Quay, one; 
coach to Tintagel, three ; coach to Bude, one * coach to Clovelly, two ; coach to Bideford, 
Ilfracombe, two ; coach to Lynton, three (Dulverton, over Exmoor) ; coach to Mineheacl, 
Bristol, one ; Ross, one ; boat down the Wye to Monmouth, three (Raglan Castle and 
Usk) ; boat to Tintern Abbey, walk to Chepstow, one; Gloucester, one; Oxford, one; 
London, five ; Rowsley, four (Hadaon, Chats worth) ; Liverpool, one. 

28 



Eighty-two Days. 

Liverpool, two clays; Chester, one; Furness Abbey, Ambleside (Hawkeshead, Ulls- 
water), five; Keswick (Druid Circle, vale of St. John; Buttermere, Skiddaw), three; 
Glasgow, one; Oban, ten; Fort William, one; Inverness, one ; Blair-Athole, one; Edin- 
burgh, six; Stirling, one; Melrose, two; Berwick-on-Tweed, one; Durham, York, four; 
Lincoln (Boston), two; Peterborough, two; Ely, one; London, ten; Canterbury, one; 
Eastbourne, one; Brighton, Ventnor, three; Freshwater, one; Southampton, one; Salis- 
bury, one; Exeter, one; Penzance, three; Bideford, one; Clovelly, one; Bideford, Ilfra- 
combe, one; Lynton, one; Mineheacl, Bristol, two; Tintern Abbey, one; Gloucester, 
"Worcester, Warwick, four ; Lichfield, Rowsley, four ; Liverpool, one. 

Eighty-three Days. 

Dover, Canterbury, fourteen clays (Folkestone, Sandwich); London, fourteen; 
Oxford, eight; Winchester, one; Ventnor, three; Newport, one; Southampton, one,- 
Salisbury, two (Bemerton) ; Bideford, two ; Clovelly, one ; Bude, one ; Tintagel, one ; 
Bude, one; Clovelly, one; Bideford, two; Gloucester, one; Leamington, seven; Rows- 
ley, one,- Sheffield, six (Ruskin Museum) ; Ambleside, thirteen; Liverpool. 

Thirty-three Days. 

Liverpool, Chester, one day; Bowness, one; Keswick, one; Glasgow, three; Oban, 
one; Gairlock, one; Inverness, one ; Oban, two (Fingal's Cave and Iona) ; Callander, 
Edinburgh, three; (Roslyn Chapel), Melrose, two; (Dryburgh Abbey and Abbotsford) ; 
Durham, one; Eipon, one; York, one; Lincoln, Peterborough, one; Ely, one; Cam- 
bridge, one; Coventry, Kenilworth, Warwick, Stratford, one; Oxford, London, ten. 

Twenty-six Days. 

Queenstown to Cork, steamer on river Lee; Blarney Castle, jaunting-car; Killarney, 
one ; carriage to Gap of Dunloe, walk through Gap, boat on lakes of Killarney to Ross 
Castle, carriage back to Killarney, one; Dublin, one; morning boat to Holyhead, rail to 

29 



Bangor and Carnarvon, one; rail to Llanberis, carriage through Llanberis pass to Capel 
Curig and Bettws-y-Coed, rail to Conway, one; rail to Chester, two; Glasgow, one; 
Balloch, Loch Lomond to Iversnaid, coach to Stronachlacher, Loch Katrine, coach 
through Trossachs to Aberfoyle, rail to Stirling, one ; Edinburgh, two ; Roslyn Chapel, 
Melrose, one; York, two; Coventry, one; Warwick, Stratford, one; Oxford, one; Lon- 
don, six ; Canterbury, Dover, one ; (Continental trip) Harwich, London, one ; Liverpool. 

Eighteen Days. 

Dover, Calais, one; Paris, four; Geneva, one; Cluses, diligence to Chamouni, two; 
Mer de Glace, carriage over Tete-Noire Pass to Martigny, one; rail to Bouveret, steamer 
on Lake Geneva to Lausanne (port, Ouchy), rail to Thun, steamer on Lake Thun to Dar- 
ligen, rail to Interlaken, one; Interlaken, one; steamer on Lake Brienz, Giessbach, 
Brienz, Briinig Pass to Alpnach, steamer on Lake Lucerne, Lucerne, one ; steamer on 
Lake Lucerne and mountain railway to summit of Righi, one ; rail down the mountain to 
Zug, steamer on Lake Zug to Zurich, rail to Schaffhausen, one; Falls of the Rhine, 
Heidelberg, Mayence, one; Rhine steamer to Cologne, one; Brussels, Antwerp, two; 
Harwich, London. — Gaze's tickets, London to London, £12, 12s. 4d. 

Forty-Six Days. — Expense, $150. 

Rotterdam, one; The Hague, two; Cologne, Rolandseck, one; Boppard, one; Worms, 
one; Heidelberg, Freiberg, three ; Freiberg to Wehr, four ; Neuhausen, one; Kiissnacht, 
one ; walk over the Righi to Wiiggis, one ; Lucerne, five ; walk to Lauterbrunnen, seven ; 
Interlaken, two ; Martigny, one ; walk over the Col de Balme to Chamouni, two ; Geneva, 
one; Milan, one; Venice, five; Verona, one; Munich, one; Leipsic, one; Amsterdam, 
two; Rotterdam, one. 

Knapsack Tour in Switzerland. 

Taken by two Women in 1891. 

From Lucerne to Interlaken ; time, 7 days ; average daily expense, each, 7 marks. 
1. Lucerne to Goschenen, rail; walk from Goschenen to Hospenthal, 5£ miles. 

30 



2. Hospenthal to Rhone Glacier, Furka Pass (dinner, Hotel Gletsch), Grinisel, whole 
distance about 25 miles ; Hotel Grimsel Hospice. 

3. Grimsel Hospice to Meiringen, distance about 20 miles; easy walking; Hotel Bar. 

4. Meiringen to Grindelwald over Great Scheicleck; distance about 15 miles; Hotel 
Eiger. 

5. Visit Grindelwald Glaciers. 

6. Grindelwald to Mannlichen ; five hours' climb ; Hotel Mannlichen Righl. 

7. Mannlichen to Lauterbrunnen over Little Scheicleck; four hours' descent, hard; 
Hotel Staubbach, dinner ; train to Grindelwald. 

Knapsack Tour in Black Forest. 
Taken by two Women in 1891. 

1. Freiburg to Himmelreich, by rail, | hour. Walk through Hollenthal to Titisee, 
about 10 miles, easy walking, 2k hours. 

2. Titisee up the Feldberg, 3£ hours; down to Todtnau, 5 hours; whole distance, 
Titisee to Todtnau, about 25 miles. 

3. Todtnau to Tocltmoos, about 10 miles. 

4. Todtmoos to Wehr, about 12 miles. 

A Month's Walking Tour in Wales. 

Average day's march of sixteen miles, through a territory designed for the especial 
happiness of botanists, artists, anglers, and able-bodied idlers ; it is much more delightful 
to march from Bristol to Chester than to start from the other end. (See Baedeker's 
Great Britain for chief points of interest in each entrancing neighborhood.) 

Leave Bristol, early afternoon, by train for Chepstow, via Severn Tunnel ; next morn- 
ing, walk to Monmouth, along Wye Valley ; Tintern Abbey is half way, and inn near ; sleep 
at Monmouth, starting about noon for Abergavenny; two days there, ascent of the 
Blorenge, etc. ; thence up Usk valley, through Crickhowell to Brecon (Brecknock) , stay 
at latter place two days ; train to Rhayader, putting up there three days ; train through 

31 



Machynlleth to Aberdovey, two days ; coast-walk thence through Barmouth to Dolgelly, 
three days ; train to Llangollen, two days ; short walk to Corwen, arriving by nightfall; 
train to Ffestiniog (toy railway there) in morning ; thence walk through Aberglaslyn to 
Beddgelert, three days ; walk to Rhyd-Ddu, for ascent of Snowdon ; walk to Bettws-y-Coed, 
three days; walk to Llanrwrst (lane with stiles twelve miles along river), one day; 
walk to Conway, three days ; train to Llandudno, sea-views from Great and Little Orme's 
Head, one day ; train to Chester. 



An Alpine Trip, Taken in 1893. 

Steamer from Lucerne to Fluelen. St. Gothard Railroad from Fluelen through spiral 
and long tunnels to Airolo ; night there. Walk from Airolo over St. Gothard Pass to 
Hospenthal; dinner on summit of Pass; night at Ilospeuthal. Private carriage or 
diligence from Hospenthal over Furka Pass to Fiesch, visiting Rhone Glacier en route. 
Walk from Fiesch to Hotel Jung Fran on Eggishorn ; night there. Walk to Ricder Alp, 
thence to Bel Alp ; night there. Walk down to Brieg ; rail to Zermatt ; one week ; ascent 
of the Gorner Grat. Rail from Zermatt to Martigny ; night there. Walk to inn on the 
Forclaz; night there. Walk over the Col de Balme to Chamonix. Week in Chamonix, 
Private carriage or diligence to Geneva. 

Sixteen Days in Norway. 

Vosserwangen (Fleischen Hotel), one day; drive to Stalheim (Stalheim Hotel), one 
clay; drive to Gudwangen (Hotel Viking vang), one clay; steamship " Ragnvald Jarl " to 
Trondhjem, four clays; Trondhjem (Hotel Brittania), one day; steamer for Battenfjord, 
one day; drive to Molde to join steamer; Oie (Hotel Retiro), one clay; drive to Faleide 
(Tenden's Hotel), two clays; steamer to Utviken; drive to Egge and Skei (Hotel Skei), 
one day; steamer to Nedre Vasenden; drive to Sancle (Sivertsen's Hotel), one clay; drive 
to Vadheim, one day; steamer to Balholra (Kvipne's Hotel), one day; excursions; steamer 
to Bergen. 

32 



Seven Weeks in England, Taken by Two Women in 1890. 

Colchester ; Ipswich (Harwich) ; Norwich (Cromer) ; Yarmouth (Lowestoft) ; Bury 
St. Edmunds ; Long Melf ord ; Saffron Walclen ; Oxford ; Winchester ; Guildford ; Dork- 
ing and Reigate. This was a leisurely progress, walking and driving. 



SOME HINTS ABOUT LONDON. 

" Now is Mortimer lord of this city." — Henry VI. 

London in summer is absolutely delightful. Whatever may be said about it by way of 
affectionate abuse, the climate, to Americans, is one continual cool twilight from July to 
October, very windless, very mild, and restful exceedingly. It is just as well to carry an 
umbrella whenever you stir from the house, though there is a disposition on the part of 
the rain to be as dryly humorous as it can. Moreover, the common people — the people 
in shops, 'buses, and streets, with whom daily dealings lie — are the kindest and slowest 
of mortals ; like the weather, they pour balm on aches, and beautifully mesmerize active 
minds. Like the weather, again, they are to be trusted. Nothing will surprise a novice 
more than the discrepancy between the looks, even, of English beggars and roughs and 
their soft phrases and voices. The general rule for " knocking about " is quite as it is at 
home. Go everywhere, you that are a gentlewoman, and everywhere you will have gentle 
treatment. An American on a prowl has the physical freedom of the city, and is an 
adorer more than welcome at shrines where natives never come. 

One of your first duties, obviously, is to haunt the tops of omnibuses. A seat next 
the driver, if you can climb into it, is highly desirable ; he is almost sure to be an agree- 
able, well-informed creature, who is delighted to be your guide, philosopher, and friend, 
as you bowl through Cheapside and the Strand. Warm thanks in the shape of a sixpence 
is appreciated, as it never fails to be by the " non Anglus sed angelus." 

The unanimous indorsement of all the women at the bottom of the Rest Tour Associa- 

33 



tion is : Buy a " Baedeker's London," study it, sleep with it, and swear by it. With that, 
and a large-print Bacon's map of London and its environs, you are in a fair way to know 
all that is knowable of the ancestral capital. But some things will here bear saying over 
with especial stress. 

In your sight-seeing, keep clear, if possible, of a crowd, and of vergers. If you are 
fastidious and without an official friend, you will have a horrid time at the Houses of 
Parliament, and another at Windsor Castle, and a third even in Westminster Abbey, unless 
you make it a point to go there (between the daily services, which are at ten and three) 
only on Mondays and Tuesdays. In the two first-named places, tourists are always herded 
about like sheep, and rapped to order for gazing at anything longer than you might utter 
" Jack Robinson." But, on the days named, you are free of the glorious Abbey in every part. 
Should it interest you particularly, there is a thrice-admirable guide-book, by far the best 
we know printed, with bright orange covers, by the Fall Mall Gazette; it is to be had for 
a shilling at any paper-vender's, and also at the Abbey doors. Again, it is well worth while 
writing a short and deferent petition to the Dean, for permission to admit three, or two, 
or five persons, as the case may be, to visit the semi-private court of monarchs over the 
Islip Chapel: the waxen effigies of Elizabeth, Charles II., Queens Anne and Mary, and 
some six others, once carried on their coffins, and dressed in the faded finery of their own 
reigns. This same permit includes admission to the little Henry V. chantry, whence you 
may look down upon St. Edward the Confessor's time-worn tomb, ringed about with the 
dust which makes English history. The triforium is wonderfully interesting also, but it 
is extremely difficult to obtain access to it. The ever-beautiful cloisters, entered from 
Dean's yard, with all their dark openings and cool arches to be explored, are free always, 
and so, if we mistake not, are the Chapter-house and the Jerusalem Chamber. In the 
, same way, when visiting St. Paul's, where small fees are asked for the crypt, the great 
dome and the whispering gallery, do not fail (if you care for it) to ask to be shown 
the Donne monument, in the south ambulatory. It was saved from the old cathedral in 
the great fire of 1666, and has a unique personal history, to be found in "Dr. Donne's 
Life," by Izaak Walton. And, once more, in going over the Tower, get, by some virtuous 
bribe or other, into St. Peter's Chapel, near the spot where the old site of the scaffold is 

34 



railed in and paved; for it is not commonly shown. There lie, among others, Anne 
Boleyn and Katharine Howard; Bishop Fisher, of Rochester, and Sir Thomas More; 
Lady Jane Grey ; the last of the proud Geraldines ; Elizabeth's knightly Essex, and 
" King " Monmouth in his beauty, and the Jacobite lords of 1745 : the headless just and 
the headless unjust, awaiting the resurrection. ^^^"^ 

The parks are a world in themselves, and display, night and day, the drama o^ffondon 
life. Hyde Park is always full, particularly on Sundays, of queer human sights; and 
fashion rides and walks there during the week. The Green Park is prettily sequestered 
in parts; Kensington Gardens is a noble space, under the shadow of the old palace, and 
filled with ancient elms and limes; St. James' Park, entered best at first through the 
soon-to-be-demolished archway of the Horse Guards in Whitehall, across the wide 
tilting-field of Tudor and Stuart times, is crowded with historic memories, from the 
quasi-sublime in Charles I. to the sage absurdities of a song in Iolanthe : and there 
among the boats flash and dive the pretty water-fowl, begging crumbs from the public 
hand, as their progenitors used to do in the seventeenth century. 

The most interesting schools in the city are Westminster, St. Paul's, and Christ Hos- 
pital, all ancient, and as diverse as possible. The Charterhouse, of Thackeray's youth, 
has long been removed to Godalming, Surrey ; but a lover of Col. Newcome may like still 
to see the hall and the cloisters, and the chapel, and the quaint quadrangle called "Wash- 
house Court," which are associated with him. All these places are in charge of custo- 
dians, and readily to be seen, though the hurrying " globe-trotter " passes them by. Christ 
Hospital is likely not to remain as it is, outwardly or inwardly ; but it is amusing and 
comforting still to meet on the streets a hatless, yellow-stockinged boy in the odd dress 
of those on the foundation, and to look after him as after the little figure, once so like it, 
of Hunt, Lamb, or Coleridge. 

There are scores of old churches, most of them clustered together between Newgate 
and Aldgate. We would name a few as extraordinarily interesting : St. Bartholomew's, 
Smithfield, built in 1123; the Temple Church, St. Mary's, some sixty years later; St. 
Catherine Cree, and St. Andrew Undershaft, close together on Leadenhall Street; All 
Hallows Barking, and Pepys's dear church, St. Olave's, both near the Tower ; St. Giles 

35 



Cripplegate, where Milton lies; St. Margaret's, next the Abbey; St. EtheZburga's, a 
homely, charming bit of fourteenth-century work, on Bishopsgate Street, and St. Ethel- 
dreda's, the gem-like chapel of the old bishops of Ely, a stone's-throw from Holborn 
Circus, (these two last are unspoiled) ; then there is magnificent St. Saviour's in the 
Borough, and the conventual St. Helen's, off Bishopsgate Street Within, which was 
Shakespeare's parish church. For the best male choir music, you should seek the two 
great minsters, the Temple Church, the Brompton Oratory, All Saints', Margaret Street, 
at the West End ; St. Anne's, in Wardour Street, Soho ; the Dominican Priory, Haver- 
stock Hill, and others recommended. At all the churches, there are Sunday services at 
eleven and seven, and the venerable down-town ones (whose congregation most probably 
consists of yourself, the sexton, and two old women) are open, besides, every clay at 
noon ; or, if not open, have their keys next door, in the custody of some amiable female. 

Good shops, where you will be asked to sit down, and plied with other superfluities, 
abound in London. If you are after what in American patois is called " dry-goods," and 
are, at the same time, bent on economy, do not get beguiled on to New Bond Street, or 
Regent Street, either, but cling heroically to the purlieus of Oxford Street. " Dry-goods " 
in general cost very much less than with us, especially masculine dry-goods. Fruit of 
all kinds is very plentiful, and, if you buy it at the stalls, very cheap. 

A contemplative mind may get a vast amount of pleasure out of a stroll in the business 
section after the closing hour. This applies strongly to the city between St. Paul's and the 
dull street called the Minories, which connects Aldgate on the north with the Tower on the 
south. At any time after half -past four, or before ten in the morning, this district is an 
untrodden waste, and at some corner you stumble on a porch, a clock, an escutcheon, or a 
turret, which atones for the whole modern world. When you have wandered into Cloth 
Fair and stared at its Jacobean gables, and lunched at the Cheshire Cheese and at Crosby 
Hall; when you have browsed in the Guildhall Museum and crypt, and have spouted 
Wordsworth under the Cheapside tree; when you have found the stuccoed glories of 
Buckingham's forgotten house off Cannon Street, on College Hill, and stood by Inigo 
Jones's graceful water-gate, by Charing Cross, and that other gate, once monastic, 
St. John's of Clerkenwell, known to Dr. Johnson in the days of his toil for Cave ; when 

36 



you have sought Strand Lane from Surrey Street, and seen the clear water in a Roman 
bath ebbing into another bath which knew Queen Bess, and have patrolled the dirty 
picturesque length of Holywell and Wych Streets, to stand at the angle of Drury Court, 
like merry Nell Gwynn before you, and watch the spotless spires of St. Mary-le-Strand 
and St. Clement Danes lifted each from its time-colored base into the soft hazy air ; 
then, dear Resting Tourist, you truly know a little of inexhaustible London. If needs 
be, if you are tired of all that, let the great shows pass ; but ride in a penny steamer, 
lounge on the great bridges, cross from the fine Tudor gateway on Chancery Lane, the 
plush-like grass of Lincoln's Inn, observe the poor tatterdemalion, golden-headed imps of 
Leather Lane waltzing on the pavement to a hand-organ tune, and be happy with these 
things which respectability wots not of, and which make up forever the strange and dear 
picture of the town. 

The priceless National Gallery is in the eye of the world, and nothing need be said of it. 
But far off, temporarily placed in the Bethnal Green (free) Museum (reached by an Old Ford 
'bus from the Bank) , is the National Portrait Gallery, sacred for some years now to the 
starved intelligences of the East End. Here are hundreds of English faces, well painted, 
well contrasted, well hung, making a subtle music on the prosaic walls: an inestimable 
collection for those who love nistory and literature. Few linger there, for 



" Ah, Maecenas is ywrapt in clay, 
And great Augustus long ygo is dead ! " 



Even in England, the uses of to-day swallow up their betters, and a gentleman in oils, 
however illustrious, if he be three hundred years behind the times, is not equal to Mr. 
Gladstone's shoe-string. 

Boats ply up the river from London Bridge, touching at all the piers, many times a 
day. They run, when the tide serves, to Richmond, and even to Hampton. The fares 
are absurdly small, and the little voyage is full of grimy, and ever-less-and-less-grimy 
beauty. Among the tiny tours recommended by the vigilant Baedeker (after this all- 
day possibility at Hampton Court, which is a delight indeed) , some may be specified as 

37 



sure to please : that to Greenwich, clown the Thames (with a whitebait dinner, and a sigh 
over Nelson's waistcoat, kept among the sailors, with its faded stain from Trafalgar) , that 
to Windsor, Eton, and Stoke Pogis, and to the glorious Burnham Beeches, too, if you be 
a gregarious person with able legs; that to the Gallery at Dulwich; to Hampstead 
Heath, with its stretches of gorse and holly, its inns, and its memorials of poets and high- 
waymen ; to Epping Forest and to St. Albans ; and south, and farther afield, to Penshurst 
and the lovely Kentish hills. Every one of the Thames up-river towns is full of interest ; 
and a row-boat taken at Henley, at Sonning, at Chertsey, will give you more joy than can 
here be set down. 

A last word : The very best book of its kind is (in our impartial judgment), Augustus 
Hare's " Walks in London." Its only fault is that it is too bulky to carry about. Next, and 
dedicated to those only who love literature, comes Mr. Laurence Hutton's " Literary 
Landmarks," brimmed with accurate information, and with real enthusiasm for its subject. 
These two should be bought, like Baedeker, and leaned against. (There is a thin book, 
called " Memorable London Houses," by one W. Harrison, — capital and very enticing, — 
and retailed at a shilling or so ; but it is " cribbed " from Mr. Hutton's patient and admira- 
ble work, and therefore ought to be denied to any honest satchel.) With a general recom- 
mendation for those who are nothing if not thorough, to dip early and often into Timbs, 
J. T. Smith, Leigh Hunt's now-out-of-date " The Town," and the six exhaustive volumes 
of " Old and New London," by Messrs. Waif ord and Thornbury, our topographical list 
may close. For if it be not closed now, it might go on recruiting until doomsday. Lon- 
don is not to be measured in a day nor a decade ; and it remains true that each of us shall 
explore only the London to which we were born, and of which we have dreamed : " We 
make from within us the world we see." 



3* 



PERIODS OF ENGLISH ARCHITECTURE. 
Saxon, Anglo-Norman, Gothic or Pointed. 

" The cloud-capp'd towers, the gorgeous palaces, 
The solemn temples." — Tempest. 

Early Saxon. — Buildings of this era were erected one of Roman remains, or in direct 
imitation of them. Example : Church of St. Lawrence, at Bradford-on-Avon. Prior 
to 800. 

Middle Saxon. — Buildings of this period exhibit " long-and-short " masonry, pilasters, 
baluster shafts, and other peculiarities. Example : Earls Barton Church, Northamp- 
tonshire. 800-1040. 

Late Saxon. — Structures of this time show departures from the Saxon traditions, and 
approach in some degree to the succeeding style. Examples : St. Peter-at-Gowts and 
St. Mary-le-Wigford, Lincoln. 1040-1090. 

Early Anglo-Norman. — Work of this style is devoid of ornament, and displays the 
bare round arch and wide-jointed masonry. Examples : Part of the west front of 
Lincoln and the transepts of Winchester. 1040-1100. 

Middle A.nglo-Norman. — Characteristics: Increased use of ornament. Multiplication 
of details. Examples : Naves of Norwich, Ely, and Peterborough. 1100-1170. 

Late Anglo-Norman or Transitional. — Characteristics : Lavish ornamentation. Occa- 
sional appearance of the pointed arch. Examples : Church of St. Cross at Winches- 
ter, Bomsey Abbey, Malmesburg Abbey, Galilee Chapel at Durham. 1170-1200. 

Early English or First Pointed. — Characteristics : Lancet windows, bold projecting 
buttresses, dog-tooth moulding round abacus, etc. Examples : Salisbury Cathedral, 
choirs of Lincoln and Beverly. 1200-1272. 

Middle Pointed, Decorated, or Edwardian. — Geometrical. — Characteristics : Geo- 
metrical tracery, ball-fiower moulding, etc. Examples : Exeter Cathedral, octagon of 
Ely. 1272-1340. 

39 



Curvilinear. — Characteristics: Tracery made up of converging and diverging lines, 
etc. Examples : West front of York, spires of Salisbury and Norwich, east window 
of Carlisle, west window of York. 
Perpendicular, or Third Pointed. — Characteristics : Substitution of vertical for flow- 
ing lines, square forms in ornament, mullions continued to the top of the window 
arch, fan tracery in vaults, etc. Examples : West front of Beverly, naves of Win- 
chester and Canterbury . 1380-1550. 
Tudor Perpendicular. — Characteristics : The four-centred or depressed arch, carved 
oak ceilings, and fan-traceried stone ones. Examples : Vaults of Henry VII. 
Chapel, Westminster, and of King's College Chapel, Cambridge. 

Since the sixteenth century, and despite the work of Inigo Jones and the great Wren , 
architecture has had, in England especially, no legitimate development. Only a few 
characteristics of each style are named, but the student will soon learn to detect other 
points of difference between successive periods, as important as any here mentioned. 



COUNTY SCALE OF BEAUTY AND INTEREST. 

" In this best garden of the world." — Henry V. 

The counties of England, roughly classified according to the general opinion, follow 
a distinctly ascending scale of beauty and merit. Yet who can speak with assurance, even 
of natural beauties, when Dr. Arnold declares of Warwickshire, the garden of England, 
and crown of our list, that her endless succession of field and hedge-row failed altogether 
to delight him ! " It is no wonder we do not like looking that way (eastward from 
Rugby) ," said he, in ingenious excuse, " when one considers that there is nothing fine 
between us and the Ural Mountains ! " And to some of us, Warwickshire might be the 
world's desire. A list like the following needs the revision of private judgment. Some of 
the " comparatives " have exquisite valley scenery, or, as in the case of Hants (Hampshire) 
and Northamptonshire, extreme historic and ecclesiastical interest. Flat Lincolnshire not 

40 



only holds one of the most glorious cathedrals in the world, but its " dreary moorland * 
and " barren shore " have mirrored themselves in a poet's imagination. From its sandy 
reaches even we poor pilgrims may see, like Tennyson, those " Hollow ocean ridges 
roaring into cataracts." 

Gloucester, Durham, and Worcester wear each the jewel of a cathedral; and Somer- 
setshire — admiring neighbor to "girt Jan Ridd" — shall be forever famous as the 
home of Glastonbury and the Holy Thorn. Cambridgeshire has her University and her 
memories of the Ely monks, and mighty London occupies a significant bit of common- 
place Middlesex. Chester boasts her county city famed from of old, and even bleak 
Yorkshire is glorified by a carpet of such heather as the stay-at-home American cannot 
even imagine. 

But of the nine superlative counties who can say too much? Even the critical tourist 
will do well, when he meets them face to face, if he keep on this side idolatry. 

The artist, of all men, may find in England his earth]/ paradise. Nothing can be 
more picturesque than its southwestern shore, from Land's End up to the Bristol Channel ; 
the Vale of the Severn is unspeakably lovely; even the light on the Thames through 
London smoke is enough to drive a colorist wild ; and there is many a nook — such 
as little Chagford, shut in by rolling Dartmoor hills, and garlanded with heather, — 
where brush and pencil find ample occupation. Scotland and the Hebrides are full of 
stormy beauty ; Ireland has the grandest ruins and the grandest sea-coast, too ; and the 
mountains and castles of Wales hold up their heads in triumphant challenge to some of 
the famed Continental giants. 



Positive. 
Norfolk. 
Suffolk. 
Lincolnshire. , 
Nottingham shir e . 
Rutland. 
(Staffordshire. 



Comparative. 
Sussex. 
Gloucester. 
Wiltshire. 
Dorset. 

Monmouthshire. 
Northamptonshire. 
41 



Superlative. 
Warwickshire. 
Devonshire. 
Kent. 
Surrey. 
Derbyshire. 
Cornwall. 



Comparative. 
Hampshire. 
Somersetshire. 
Berkshire. 
Oxfordshire. 
Worcester. 
Hereford. 
Durham. 
Hertfordshire. 



Positive. Comparative. Superlative. 

Bedford. Hampshire. Westmoreland. 

Chester. Somersetshire. Cumberland. 

Leicester. Berkshire. Northumberland. 

Huntingdon. 
Essex. 
Middlesex. 
Yorkshire. 
Buckinghamshire. 
Cambridgeshire . 
Shropshire. 
Lancashire. 

THE HERO-WORSHIPPER'S CALENDAR. 

" We live to tread on kings." — Henry IV. 

Addison, Joseph. Born in Milston, Wilts, 1672 ; buried in north aisle of Henry VII. 

Chapel, Westminster Abbey (name cut in slab on floor), 1719. 
Arnold, Matthew. Born in Laleham, Surrey, 1822; buried there in churchyard, under 

white marble cross, 1888. 
Arnold, Thomas. Born at Cowes, Isle of Wight, 1795; buried in chapel at Rugby 

School, 1842. 
Austen, Jane. Born at Steventon, Hants, 1775; buried in north aisle of nave, Winches- 

» ter Cathedral, 1817. 
Bacon, Francis, Lord. Born in London, 1561; buried in abbey church of St. Albans 

(fine seated effigy), 1626. 
Barbauld, Anna Letitia. Born at Kibworth Harcourt, Leicestershire, 1743; buri d 

at Stoke-Newington, 1825. 
Beaconsfield, Benjamin Disraeli, Earl of. Born in London, 1805 ; buried in Hugh- 

enden, Bucks (in vault near church), 1881. 

42 



Bronte, Charlotte. Born in Thornton, Yorkshire, 1S1G; buried in Haworth Church, 

1855. 
Bronte, Emily. Born in Thornton, Yorkshire, 1819; buried in Haworth Church, 1848. 
Browning, Elizabeth Barrett. Born in Durham, 1807; buried in Protestant ceme- 
tery, Elorence, 1861. 
Browning, Robert. Born in Camberwell, London, 1812; buried next to Cowley, in 

entrance to Poets' Corner, Westminster Abbey, 1890. 
Bunyan, John. Born in Elstow, Bedford, 1628 ; buried in Bunhill Fields, London, 1688. 
Burke, Edmund. Born in Dublin, 1728 ; buried in Beaconsfield Church, Bucks, 1797. 
Burns, Robert. Born in Ayr, Scotland, 1759 ; buried in Dumfries churchyard, 1796. 
Byron, George Gordon Noel, Lord. Born in London, 1788 ; buried in the church of 

Hucknall Torkard, Northamptonshire (a very dreary spot), 1824. 
Campbell, Thomas. Born in Glasgow, 1777; buried in Poets' Corner, Westminster 

Abbey (statue), 1844. 
Carlyle, Thomas. Born in Ecclefechan, Dumfriesshire, Scotland, 1795; buried in 

churchyard there, 1881. 
Chaucer, Geoffrey. Born in London, 1328; buried in Poets' Corner, Westminster 

Abbey (under beautiful altar-tomb, against east wall), 1400. 
Coleridge, Samuel Taylor. Born in Ottery St. Mary, Devon, 1772 ; buried in crypt 

of Highgate Grammar School Chapel (accessible from the yard), 1834. 

Cowper, William. Born in Great Berkhampstead, Hertford, 1731 ; buried in fine old 

church at Dereham, Norfolk, 1800. 
D'Arblay, Frances Burney. Born at Lynn Regis, Norfolk, 1752; buried in Walcot 

churchyard, 1840. 

Defoe, Daniel. Born in London, 1661; buried in Bunhill Fields, 1731 (near a small 
pyramid erected to his memory by school-children, towards the north of the very 
crowded ground). 

43 



Dickens, Charles. Born in Landport, Hants, 1812; buried in Poets' Corner, Westmin- 
ster Abbey (large stone slab in southerly part), 1870. 

Dryden, John. Born in Aldwincle, Northamptonshire, 1631 ; buried at edge of St. 
Benedict's Chapel, Poets' Corner, Westminster Abbey, 1701. 

Eliot, George (Marian Evans Cross). Born in Chilvers Coton, Warwickshire, 1820 ; 
buried in new portion of Highgate Cemetery, 1880. 

Fielding, Henry. Born in Glastonbury, Somerset, 1707; buried in Lisbon, 1754. 

Gay, John. Born at Barnstaple, 1688; buried in Poets' Corner, Westminster Abbey, 1732. 

Goldsmith, Oliver. Born in Pallas, Longford, Ireland, 1728; buried in terrace of 
Temple churchyard, London (near, but probably not under, the sarcophagus, " Here 
lies Oliver Goldsmith"), 1774. 

Gray, Thomas. Born in London, 1716; buried in Stoke Pogis churchyard (tomb where 
he lies with his mother, just outside east wall of church), 1771. 

Hazlitt, William. Born in Maidstone, Kent, 1778 ; buried in yard of St. Anne's Church, 
Wardour St., London, 1830. 

Hemans, Felicia. Born in Liverpool, 1794; buried at St. Anne's, Dublin (in south aisle, 
with epitaph), 1835. 

Herbert, George. Born in Montgomery, Wales, 1593; buried in Bemerton Church, 
Wilts, 1632. 

Herkick, Robert. Born in London, 1591 ; buried in Dean Prior, Devonshire, 1674. 

Hood, Thomas. Born in London, 1798 ; buried in Kensal Green, London (under a mas- 
sive and not very pleasing bronze bust), 1845. 

Hunt, Leigh. Born in Southgate, Middlesex, 1784; buried in Kensal Green, London 
(with a very beautiful marble bust, raised, like Hood's, by subscription), 1859. 

Johnson, Dr. Samuel. Born in Lichfield, 1709; buried in Poets' Corner, Westminster 
Abbey (inscription on slab; monument is in St. Paul's), 1784. 

44 



Jonson, Ben. Born in Westminster, 1574 ; buried there in the north aisle of the Abbey 
nave (not in Poets' Corner, where his bust is), 1637. 

Keats, John. Born in London, 1795 ; buried in Protestant cemetery, Rome, 1821. 

Keble, Johx. Born in Fairforcl, Gloucestershire, 1792 ; buried in Hursley churchyard, 
Hants (not far from Winchester), 1866. 

Kingsley, Charles (Canon of Westminster). Born in Holne, Devon, 1819; buried at 
Eversley, 1875. 

Lamb, Charles. Born in London, 1775 ; buried in Edmonton churchyard, Middlesex 
(southwest of church door, near path, facing the wall, under a plain white stone) , 
1834. 

Landor, Walter Savage. Born in Warwick, 1775 ; buried at Florence, 1864. 

Lytton, Edward Bulwer, Lord. Born at Haydon Hall, Norfolk, 1803; buried in St. 
Edmund's Chapel, Westminster Abbey, 1873. 

Macaulay, Thomas Babington. Born in Rothley Temple, Leicestershire, 1800; buried 
in Poets' Corner, Westminster Abbey, 1859. 

Martineau, Harriet. Born in Norwich, 1802; buried at Birmingham, 1876. 
Miller, Hugh. Born at Cromarty, Scotland, 1802; buried in Grange Cemetery, Edin- 
burgh, 1856. 

Milton, John. Born in London, 1608; buried there, near chancel of St. Giles, Cripple- 
gate (with monument against south wall of aisle), 1674. 

Moore, Thomas. Born in Dublin, 1779 ; buried at Bromham, Beolfordshire, 1852. 

More, Hannah. Born at Stapleton, 1745; buried at Wrington, Somerset, 1833. 

Newman, John Henry, Cardinal. Born in London, 1801 ; buried in grounds of the 
Oratorians, Reclnall, near Birmingham, 1890. 

Newton, Sir Isaac. Born at Woolsthorpe, Lincolnshire, 1642 ; buried in nave of West- 
minster Abbey, 1727. 

45 



Stanley, Arthur Penrhyn, Dean of Westminster. Born in Alderley, Cheshire, 1815; 
buried in Henry VII. Chapel, Westminster Abbey (fine recumbent effigy), 1881. 

Steele, Sir Richard. Born in Dublin, 1671 ; buried in St. Peter's Church, Caermathen, 
Wales, 1729. 

Sterne, Lawrence. Born in Clonmel, Ireland, 1713; buried in "cemetery near Tyburn, 
opposite Hyde Park," 1768. 

Swift, Jonathan, Dean of St. Patrick's. Born in Dublin, 1667; buried in nave of St. 
Patrick's Cathedral, Dublin, beside his " Stella " (the famous epitaph hangs high 
on the adjacent south wall), 1745. 

Taylor, Bishop Jeremy. Born at Cambridge, 1613; buried at Lisburn, Ireland, 1667. 

Thackeray, William Makepeace. Born at Calcutta, 1811; buried in Kensal Green, 
London (in southerly portion of the ground, on the path, under a low, ivy-covered 
tomb, with monogram cut in end), 1863. 

Thomson, James. Born in Roxburghshire, Scotland, 1700; buried in Richmond Church, 
Surrey, 1748. 

Waller, Edmund. Born in Coleshill, Hertfordshire, 1605 ; buried in yard of Beacons- 
field Church, Bucks, 1687. 

Walton, Izaak. Born in Stafford, 1593 ; buried in Silkstede Chapel, Winchester Cathe- 
dral (a sweet old epitaph), 1683. 

Watts, Isaac. Born at Southampton, 1674; buried at Bunhill Fields, London, 1748. 

Wesley, Charles. Born at Epworth, 1708 ; buried at City-Road Chapel, London, 1834. 

Wordsworth, William. Born in Cockermouth, Cumberland, 1770; buried in Grasmere 
churchyard, 1850. 



46 



GALA DAYS. 

" Frame the season for your own harvest." — Much Ado About Nothing. 
In the present case, when the date of a movable festival is given it refers to 1896. 

The London season begins about the first of May and lasts through July. Goodwood 
Races take many of the fashionable people from town, and grouse shooting (Aug. 12) is 
sure to call away the remainder. 

Bank Holidays (when 'Arry disports himself, and public resorts are crowded) are, in 
England and Ireland, Good Friday (April 3), Easter Monday (April 6), Whitmonday 
(May 25), the first Monday in August, and Dec. 25 and 26. In Scotland, Jan. 1, Good 
Friday (April 3), the first Monday in May and in August, and Dec. 25. 

The English Quarter Days are Lady Day (March 25), Midsummer Day (June 24), 
Michaelmas Day (Sept. 29), Christmas (Dec. 25). Quarterly trade accounts are made up 
to the end of those months. Scotch Quarter Days: Candlemas, Whitsunday, Lammas, 
Martinmas. 

Jan. 6. — Plough Monday. The first Monday after Epiphany, or Twelfth Day. In 
old times, the farm laborers were accustomed to drag the plough about, meanwhile dancing 
and begging money, preparatory to beginning ploughing after the Christmas holidays. In 
some districts, the plough is still put into use, but the sports have ceased. 

March 1. — St. David's Day. The patron saint of Wales. (Good Welshmen should 
wear leeks). 

Mid-Lent Sunday (the fourth Sunday in Lent) is Mothering Sunday — the clay for visit- 
ing one's parents, bearing gifts. The custom is still alive in remote country districts. 

" He to thee a eimnel bring, 
Gainst thou go'st a mothering." — Rerrick. 

April 2. — Maunday Thursday. The Royal Maunday, or the Sovereign's Easter 
bounties, are distributed in the Chapel Royal, Whitehall, with appropriate services. The 
recipients are aged men and women, and the number of each sex corresponds with the 
age of the reigning sovereign. 

April 19.— Primrose Day. Lord Beaconsfield's statue, London, may receive offer- 
ings of the flower associated with him. 

47 



April 23. — Special performance at the Memorial Theatre, Stratford. 
May 1. — May Day is still celebrated in some rural districts of England. 

The Royal Academy is open from the first Monday in May to the first Monday in August. 

May 1. — At sunrise there is held a short service of song on the top of Magdalen 
Tower, Oxford, to which it is extremely difficult to obtain admission. Applications should 
be addressed to the President of Magdalen College. Thousands of people assemble at the 
base of the Tower on the chance of hearing a part of the service. 

May 14. — Ascension Day, or Holy Thursday. Well-dressing at Tissington, Derby- 
shire. The wells are decorated with flowers and branches, and a part of the church 
service is conducted there. In some of the Derbyshire villages well-dressing is observed 
on the feast days of the village saints. 

The Saturday before Easter is the date for the Oxford and Cambridge boat race on 
the Thames. 

Visitors who wish to see Oxford during term time should go during the summer 
term (May 23 to July 11). 

A characteristic and beautiful time in Oxford is the week during which the races are 
rowed. The Secretary of the University Boat Club, Oxford, would give the date. 

May 29. — Oak Apple Day: a Jacobite festival. 

On the Queen's Birthday (May 24) and Coronation Day (June 28) listen for the bells, 
and, if you are in a "cathedral town, ask permission to see them rung. 

June 23. — Cambridge Commemoration Day. 

Commemoration Week (a brilliant occasion at Oxford) is generally the second or third 
week in June. For the exact date, which varies, apply to the Registrar, University of Oxford. 

Near the end of June is the cricket match between Oxford and Cambridge. 

A procession of coaches, Hyde Park, takes place three or four times between the 
months of May and July. 

June 28. — Coronation Day. The trooping of colors at the Horse Guards. 

The finest races in England are at Epsom (Derby Day, June 3), Ascot (Cup Day, 
June 17), and Goodwood (Cup Day, July 31). 

Fox-hunting lasts from Nov. 1 to April ; deer-stalking from Aug. 12 to Oct. 12 for 
stags, and from Nov. 10 to the end of March for hinds. The red deer is hunted on 
Exmoor from the second week in August to April. Try to see a meet, or be present on 

48 



"opening day." England has fourteen packs of staghounds. The most accessible of the 
kennels are those of the Devon and Somerset packs, Exford; New Forest Packs, 
Lyndhurst, Hants; Mid-Kent Pack, Wateringbury, Maidstone. There are more than 
a hundred and fifty packs of foxhounds, the lists of which may be found in Whitaker's 
Almanack. Those who love dogs should ask permission to visit the kennels. 

The Henley Regatta takes place at the end of June or the beginning of July. 

At Coventry, the procession commemorating the story of Lady Godiva used formerly to 
take place during the summer. Write the Town Clerk, and ask whether it is likely to occur. 

On the "last Friday in Long Half" (usually the second or third week in July) Dulce 
Domum is sung at Winchester college. 

11 Ye Fysshinge Feaste," Plymouth, occurs in July. It is preceded by the annual sur- 
vey of the water-works, when the mayor and corporation assemble at the head weir and 
drink "to the pious memory of Sir Francis Drake," who brought the water clown from 
Dartmoor. For the exact date, apply to the Town Clerk, Plymouth. 

The "Gathering of the Clans" takes place annually, at various localities in the 
Scottish Highlands. The precise dates may be learned from the newspapers. The Brae- 
mar Gathering is usually appointed for the beginning of September, the Aboyne Games, 
the first Wednesday or Thursday of September, the Ballater Games, about the end of 
August, Birnam Games, the last Thursday in August, and the Inverness Meeting, about 
the middle of September. Oban, Crieff, Callender, and the Bridge of Allan also have 
gatherings. The various clans, in appropriate costume, meet, and engage in Highland 
games and dancing. The games are thoroughly " Scotch," and most picturesque. 

Doncaster Races (St. Leger Day, Sept. 9; Cup Day, Sept. 11). 

It the end of September, about July 20, or the Saturday following St. Oswald's Day 
vAng. 5), rushbearing at Grasmere, in memory of the old rites attendant on renewing the 
rushes for the church floor, at the time of the yearly dedication festival. See Pall Mall 
Budget, Sept. 29, '92, or Pilgrim Scrip No. 1. 

The Welsh Eisteddfod, a competition of bards, in perpetuation of an old custom, is 
usually held in July or August. The place varies, but is always well advertised. Read a 
short account of the ceremonies in the New York Critic, Oct. 8, '92. 

The British Association meets at different towns during August. The membership 
fee is one guinea. Members may attend all the meetings and lectures. 



Canterbury Cricket Week is about the second week in August. The old town is then 
gayly decorated and full of life. 

Sacred musical festivals are held, on alternate years, at the Worcester, Gloucester, 
and Hereford cathedrals. 

Parliament sits until the last of July. 

The hop-picking in Kent (August and September) is most picturesque. 

Nov. 5, Guy Fawkes Day, is still sparsely celebrated by gamins. 

Nov. 9, Lord Mayor's Day. The Lord Mayor is then installed in office, and a gor- 
geous procession moves from the Guildhall to the Royal Courts of Justice. 

Dec. 25, remember the Christmas pantomimes. Performances are usually held on 
Dec. 26 (Boxing Day), when those who perform services for others have, from of old, 
received gratuities. 

The Christmas and Twelfth Night pre-Reformation sports still linger in certain rural 
neighborhoods. 

" In mid-Lincolnshire, the plough-boys will come to you, and act St. George and the 
Soldan, Tom Fool and Harry Fifth, France and Spain and others, in a strange medley of 
current topics, old words, and ancient and modern tunes; and in Oxfordshire, there are 
many companies like the six lads of Brizenorton, who recite with great spirit the quaint 
old couplets never written down, which they have learned from their fathers."— The 
Guardian. 

Note the market-days of country towns, and look in the county papers for notices of 
fairs. 

SOCIAL CUSTOMS. 

11 Let your own discretion be your tutor." — Hamlet. 

Women are not such fortunate beings as to need only the advice given by an Oxford 
clergyman to a groom who had married above his station, and who consequently felt 
exceedingly timorous about venturing into the society of his former " betters," — " Wear 
a black coat and hold your tongue ! " Nor is the intelligent traveller likely to require the 
succinct and delicate cautions volunteered by Pip's friend, in " Great Expectations," as to 
the conventional use of fork and spoon. She can only depend with safety on her own 
delicacy and tact for instruction in those manners which are " the fruit of loyal nature, 
and of noble mind," though perhaps, in the present case she will not despise the gently 

no 



"whispered counsel of other pilgrims who have observed the variance between the ways of 
American and English cousins. First and most encouraging dictum for the self-distrust- 
ful, remember that John Bull and all his family are disposed to like us heartily, and that 
we may enter his preserves with the confidence of those who are sure of tolerance and 
good-fellowship, if not of complete understanding. Our ways, from their very eccentri- 
city, tickle his mental palate, and above all does he rejoice when we are " truly Ameri- 
can"; that is, when, avoiding an uncourteous obtuseness to the customs of his Island, we 
3 T et betray no shamefacedness over our own national deficiencies. Preserve a decent re- 
spect for his shibboleths, and he will approve you; but for the rabid Anglomaniac he has 
only a pitying sigh. 

"I am sorry she takes that view," said a gentle English lady, when an American 
" girl " of thirty made much ado over the impropriety of walking alone in London even by 
daylight. "Our greatest reason for admiring Americans is that they are so frankly 
sensible. When they ignore the fact that they are unprotected, they are often pro- 
tected most by their own dignity." 

To be " American " is to be different from any other nationality, — not necessarily more 
admirable, but merely individual. It is to be endowed with a grace as unique and distinc- 
tive as that of French, Italian, or English dames, but such a grace as should never be 
marred by fulsome laudations of the American eagle, or general dissatisfaction with 
everything outside the New World. The person who is always talking about " the way 
we have it at home" is likely to prove an unmitigated nuisance. She has no idea of sub- 
mitting without a protest to the antiquated customs of the Romans, even though Rome has 
spread all its riches before her critical eyes. She would have one who has always lived 
under " effete monarchies " understand that American coffee is clear, while the British bever- 
age is of an unlovely gray ; that afternoon tea is a hurtful luxury, and that the Continental 
extortion in regard to candles is what no well-conducted Goddess of Liberty would for a 
moment endure. In short, she forgets that paying one's bills in a foreign land does not 
place one on a footing where grumbling ceases to be odious, and that the truest courtesy 
forces the traveller to regard himself, so far as may be, as the guest of a foreign nation. 



An Englishwoman of fine judgment and large social experience has declared that a 
well-behaved and quietly-dressed girl may go anywhere in England without subjecting 
herself to annoyance. Such a girl would scarcely attempt visiting East End alleys at 
night, or embark in other foolhardy undertakings, but so long as she keeps her ambitions 
within bounds, they may all be gratified. Two women may easily go to the theatre 
unattended in London, or any other English city. Theatre tickets may usually be ordered 
by mail (write the box-office asking the agent to reserve specified places until a certain 
date), although, of course, if one is in town she will find it easiest to select her seat in 
person, remembering that she may, with propriety, choose it from any part of the house. 
Evening dress (not necessarily low dress) is indispensable in the stalls, dress-circle, and 
boxes of a theatre; in the other seats, bonnets are allowed. At a morning performance, 
bonnets are always worn in all parts of the house. If one does not care to give her 
wraps in charge of the attendants, she may wear a lace scarf or soft hat on the way to 
the theatre, and keep it in her lap during the evening. This slightly simplifies the oper- 
ation of getting out after the performance, saving, as it does, a fraction of time and 
patience. On leaving the theatre, cabs may be found in abundance, and also " raggedy" 
men and boys, who will rush up to the undecided loiterer and beg the privilege of calling 
a hansom. A ha'penny or penny is sufficient pay for this service. Have the exact fare 
(craftily ascertained from landlady or acquaintance before leaving home) ready for use, 
with perhaps an extra tuppence, and you will not run the risk of an altercation with the 
cabman at an hour when you would fain think of Ellen Terry and Queen Katharine 
rather than shillings and pence; for the worthy cabby, it must be confessed, is apt to 
put on an extra sixpence or shilling when one weakly asks, " How much? " — whereas a bold 
front and brazenly estimated price render him uncertain whether, in spite of her "Ameri- 
can accent," his fare has not lived a decade on English soil. A woman who expects to 
visit in England, or even stay at pretentious hotels, will need a dinner dress. A dark or 
black silk, quite plainly made, will do very well, or even a pretty silk waist, to be worn 
with the travelling skirt. At afternoon teas, a walking costume is usually worn. At 
garden parties, young ladies who are likely to play tennis wear white or light-colored 
flannel dresses, while the older and more sedate members of the company may content 

62 



themselves with a dark silk gown, or even walking costume. "That," to quote Lewis 
Carroll, " must depend on the weather." 

If one has accepted an invitation to dinner (and either acceptance or refusal should be 
written immediately on receiving the invitation) , she should arrive a few minutes before 
the specified hour. 

Perhaps it is superfluous to remind a lady to take everywhere a goodly supply of visit- 
ing cards, even if she has no intention of hobnobbing with rank and fashion. There is 
constantly the necessity of exchanging them with new acquaintances, or sending one with 
the petition to see some place of interest not ordinarily shown to travellers, and such is 
the perversity of circumstance that one always wants them most in obscure places where 
none can be obtained. The customs relative to visiting cards are, broadly speaking, like 
those in America. A call should be made, or a card left, within a scrupulously short 
time after an invitation to dinner. No call need be made after an informal afternoon tea ; 
in the case of a ceremonious " function," the rule may be varied. P. P. C. cards may be 
sent by messenger or post, as in America. 

In presenting letters of introduction, one should call in person, leaving a card with the 
letter, but without asking to see the person addressed. Such letters may also be sent by 
messenger or post, but the more ceremonious way is greatly to be preferred. Although 
it is by no means necessary, some persons find it desirable to take with them cards 
engraved with their American address (crossed out with a pencilled line, so that the 
present English address maybe substituted), as it gives one a "local habitation," and 
aids new acquaintances in placing one permanently. 

Some travellers, in making provision for letter- writing, confine themselves too closely 
to their foreign stationery, reasoning that they have no acquaintances abroad, and shall 
need to write no letters of ceremony. This is of the penny-wise variety of improvidence. 
Take with you everywhere at least a small quantity of fine note-paper, of a goodly thick- 
ness and luxurious finish, that, even if you have no further use for it, you may be pre- 
pared to ask a favor "prettily," or send a worthy note of thanks in return for some such 
kindness as the English are always ready to bestow on well-behaved Americans. You 
may wish to ask permission to visit a gallery or a park not usually shown, or to beg some 

53 



"Grace "or "Lordship" for the privilege of photographing a nook on his estate, and 
your request will be far more likely to receive attention if it is sumptuously set forth, 
proving, on its face, that you are a person of refinement deserving exceptional consider- 
ation. Answer all notes without delay, and return your thanks at once for any favor. 
In writing a stranger for information, always enclose a stamp. Independent as you may 
be, do not scorn to imitate one grace of the English woman, be she duchess or chamber- 
maid, — her soft, low voice, that excellence which no American woman has yet attained 
in its infinitude of sweetness. Listen to it, delight in it, copy it if you can. 

And above all, remember that, although the eyes of the world may not be upon you, 
even the kindliest transatlantic relative will not be surprised if there crop out in your 
behavior the traits of a Daisy Miller or a Red Indian. Therefore, good and gracious 
country-women, " be vigitant," and resolve to do your nation credit in word, look, and 
deed. 

ENGLISH UNIVERSITIES. 

u Study is like the heaven's glorious sun." — Love's Labour '« Lost. 

Americans will always receive a warm welcome at Oxford or Cambridge, but it is 
important that the visitor should provide herself with letters of introduction to some 
resident in the University. An American woman can avail herself either of the provis- 
ion now made for the university education of women at Oxford or Cambridge, or of the 
University Extension lectures. 

If she has sufficient leisure, e. g., two or three years, she should do the first; if she 
is only a transient visitor, she must content herself with the second. 

I. Resident University Education For Women. 

"Women can now practically enjoy the same educational advantages as men, at Oxford 
and Cambridge, but neither University gives them degrees. The University of London 
(an examining University without any teaching staff) and the Victoria University (with 
colleges at Liverpool, Manchester and Leeds) admit women to degrees. 

54 



Any woman wishing to reside at Oxford for purposes of study should write, in the 
first instance, to Mrs. Arthur Johnson, 8 Merton Street, Oxford, one of the secretaries of 
the Association for the Education of Women in Oxford. Mrs. Johnson will give full 
information as to fees (which, including board and tuition, may be roughly estimated at 
from twenty-five pounds to thirty-five pounds a term), terms (of which there are three, 
each of eight weeks, beginning about Jan. 20, April 20, and Oct. 15), and courses of study, 
i. e., Classics, Mathematics, Ancient History and Philosophy, Law, Modern History, Nat- 
ural Science in all its branches, English and Modern Languages. Graduates of colleges 
included in the Association of College Alumnae, U. S. A., are admitted to the examinations 
without preliminary tests. 

The Halls of Kesidence for women (Women's Colleges) at Oxford are Somerville 
Hall, Lady Margaret Hall, St. Hugh's Hall, and St. Hilda's. Apply in each case to the 
Principal. Many women students live in private lodgings in Oxford. Mrs. Arthur John- 
son will advise on this point. 

Students desiring instruction by correspondence in preparation for university resi- 
dence should write to Mrs. Arthur Johnson. 

Students wishing to reside for study at Cambridge should write to the Principal of 
Girton College, or the Principal of Newnham College. 

Students wishing to become members of the Victoria University should write to Miss 
Edith Wilson, Women's Department, Owens College, Manchester, or to the Principal of 
University College, Liverpool, or the Principal of the Yorkshire College, Leeds. 

Information about the London University can be obtained from the Registrar, London 
University, Burlington Gardens, London. 



II. University Extension Teaching. 

The aim of University Extension is to bring as many as possible of the advantages of 
higher education within the reach of those who cannot undertake prolonged residence in 
a university town. Two methods are employed for this purpose, — a staff of itinerant 

55 



teachers, who visit the various parts of the country, and the provision of brief courses 
of summer study in the university towns during the absence of the undergraduates. The 
latter method was adapted from American experience. The five English Universities, 
viz. : Oxford, Cambridge, London, Durham, and Victoria, superintend Extension Work. 
Each local centre is free to take lecturers from any university, but the universities have 
adopted uniform methods of instruction. Durham works in concert with Cambridge in 
the northeast of England ; London, cooperating with representatives of Oxford and 
Cambridge, confines itself to the Metropolitan area. 

The Universities of Oxford and Cambridge have, during recent years, offered, in Au- 
gust, an opportunity for students to reside in the university towns and avail themselves 
of the advantages furnished there by laboratories, lectures, and libraries. 

Work is carried on in the chemical laboratories, and there are numerous courses of 
lectures on history, literature and art. These privileges are primarily intended to supple- 
ment the course of local lectures carried on in connection with the University Extension, 
and in order to share them, American women must write to Arthur Berry, Esq., Syndicate 
Buildings, Cambridge, for all information. One guinea covers the expenses of the course. 
Board and lodging may be had by some students at Newnham College for twenty-five 
shillings per week. 

(A few local Extension centres are affiliated to the University of Cambridge, on the 
condition of undertaking systematic study for three or four years. Students from these 
centres enjoy special university privileges. For particulars, apply as above.) 

At Oxford, the "Summer Meeting of University Extension Students " is limited to 
one thousand persons, preference being given to those who have previously attended Exten- 
sion courses. The ticket admitting to the lectures for the month of August costs thirty 
shillings ; for the first ten days, only £1. There are courses of lectures on history, litera- 
ture, theology, economics, art, and science. Visits are paid to the Colleges and University 
buildings under the guidance of residents, who give lectures on the history or architecture 
of the places visited. 

For detailed information see the official programme (price, sixpence), which can be 
obtained after Easter from the Secretary, University Extension, Oxford {or Cambridge). 

56 



Students desiring to prepare themselves for studies of the Summer Meeting can join 
an Oxford University Extension Home-Reading Circle. For particulars apply to the above 
address. The meeting in 1896 is at Cambridge. 

The committee of the Edinburgh Summer Meeting offer Vacation Science Courses 
throughout the month of August. ... 

An inclusive ticket, admitting to all the summer courses, may be had for three guineas. 
The general aim of the course, as mapped out by the committee, under the direction of 
Professor Patrick Gedde, the author of the scheme, is to make the students think. Much 
of the work is in the open air ; old Edinburgh is studied ; the Botanic Garden and seashore 
are visited. The district is considered in all its aspects — sociological, anthropological, 
biological, and physical. Women wishing to go into residence there may address House- 
keeper, University Hall, Ramsay Lodge, or for general information in regard to classes, etc., 
Riccardo Stephens, M. B., University Hall, 4 Ramsay Garden, Edinburgh. 

The London School of Economics and Political* Science, 9 John Street, Adelphi, London, 
W. C, holds a summer meeting (July 31 to Aug. 14 in 1896), the fee being £1. 



INTERNATIONAL DIFFERENCES. 



American. 
Accommodation train 
All aboard 
A quarter of four 
Baby-carriage . 
Baggage . 
Baggage-car 
Biscuits . 



Look ye, how they change ' " — Henry V. 

English. 
Parliamentary train. 
Take your seats. 
A quarter to four. 
Perambulator. 
Luggage. 
Luggage-van. 
Rolls. 
57 



America*. 
Bowl . 
Broil . 
Bundle 
By heart . 
Can (of vegetables) 
Cane . 
Car . 
Cars (the) 

Care-taker (in cathedral) 
Cloak 
Church (in country places where 

not of the Establishment) 
Check-rein 
Coal . 
Conductor 
Confectionery 
Corsets 
Crackers . 
Cuffs . 

Delicate (in health) 
Depot (passenger) 
Depot (freight) 
Dining-room (of inn) 
Dress 

Dress waist 
Driver 
Druggist . 
Dry-goods stores 
Eager 



it is 



Engliih. 
Basin. 
Grill. 
Parcel. 
By rote. 
Tin. 
Stick. 
Carriage. 
The train. 
Verger. 
Mantle. 

Chapel. 

Bearing-rein. 

Coals. 

Guard. 

Sweets. 

Stays. 

Biscuits. 

Wrists. 

Sickly, frail. 

Station, terminus. 

Depot. 

Coffee-room. 

Gown. 

Bodice or body. 

Coachman. 

Chemist. 

Drapers', Haberdashers' 

Keen. 



58 



American. 
Elevator 
Engineer 
Fall . 
Faucet 
Fee . 

Fix (room, hair, etc. 
Freight train . 
Girls (servants) 
Hack . 

Hardware store 
Hash . 

Head (of the street, train, 
Help (domestic) 
Ice-cream . 
Lap-robe . 
Lemonade . 
Letter-carrier 
Locomotive 
Lunch 
Mail . 
Mantel-piece 
Molasses . 
Mush . 
Nauseated . 
Once in a while 
Parlor 
Pitcher 
Pie (fruit) 
Postal card 



etc. 



English. 
Lift. 
Driver. 
Autumn. 
Tap. 
Tip. 

Arrange. 
Goods train. 
Maids. 

Four-wheeler (slang, 
Ironmongers . 
Mince. 
Top. 

Servants. 
Ices. 

•Railway-rug. 
Lemon-squash. 
Postman. 
Engine. 
Luncheon. 
Post. 

Chimney-piece. 
Treacle. 
Porridge. 
Sick. 

Now and then. 
Drawing-room. 
Jug. 
Tart. 
Post-card. 



growler"). 



59 



American. 
Preserves . 
Eailroad . 
Rare (meat) 
" Right away " 
Round-trip ticket 
Sick . 
Sick-abed . 
Sleeve-buttons . 
Somewhat (late, etc.) 
Spool 

Street-car . 
Sugar-bowl 
Suits (ready-made) 
Switch-tender . 
Theatre (going to the) 
Thread (sewing) 
Ticket-office 
Track (railroad) 
Trunk 
Valise 

Vegetable-store 
What is the cost ; or how 

come to? . 
What time is it? 
Wheat, oats 



ch does it 



English. 
Jam. 
R ail way. 
Underdone. 
Directly. . 
Return. . 
111. 

ill in bed. 
Cuff-links. 
Rather. 
Reel. 
Tram. 

Sugar-basin. 
Robes. 
Pointsman. 
The play. 
Cotton. 

Booking-office. 
Line 
Box. 
Bag. 
Green-grocer's. 

What is the price? 
What o'clock is it? 
Corn. 



Our little international dictionary is offered to the restricted public in the most liberal 
and friendly spirit. The spoils of language are pretty evenly divided between us and 
our elders. As the Elizabethan diction of Vermont seems queer enough to an English- 

60 



man, who would find it, if he looked, in the aged folios of his own library, so Americans 
may be permitted an affectionate smile at the composed Victorian speech, from the novel* 
ties of which "these colonies" have happily fallen away. We have no criticisms to 
make, no comparisons. Our business, as guests and passengers, is to study and relish 
the majestic variations of what we erroneously believe to be one language with ours. 
Nor shall that be without profit. Grammar may be more orthodox in New England than 
in some parts of the old, and pronounciation more intelligible; but where at home shall 
we find the sweet and mellow voices, which, by divine climatic right, issue from the 
throats even of overalled Britons? To seek the " top " of the street, to go up in a " lift," 
to imbibe "lemon-squash," — these are indeed the transient, incidental privileges of a 
tour. But a month in exile must open our eyes forever to the vanities of " cunning " and 
" cute " (if it be possible that we have belied Republican babes with these scandalous 
adjectives); it must cure us of much " guessing " and of almost all "fixing"; it must 
harden the too-tolerant among us to any mention of " salesladies " ; it must help us basely 
to forego our " relations," and the classic hamlet where, to Mr. Henley's everlasting 
mirth, some of us were " raised." It is very possible to take thought, and learn of our 
rivals, without ceasing to possess our souls in honor, without the u. It may not be 
necessary afterwards to advertise for " a religious inside man "nor "a tall governess 
experienced in the use of the rod " ; nor to refer to a small boy with ancestry as a 
"young gentleman," nor to his father, who happens to be a Presbyterian, as a "Dis- 
senter." Far be it, too, from our conscientious nasal pulpits to draw upon the text heard 
once by an astonished pilgrim in one of the great cathedrals: "He that hath yaws to 
yaw, let him yaw ! " 

Conform to custom everywhere, and widen your dialects and your hearts. Utter not 
the fatal "half-penny," which will betray you, a stranger, to what old Burton calls 
" the circumventions of every base tradesman " ; shrink not at a " fippence," nor tremble 
at your own enormity when you ask the amiable ogre of the 'bus to " be shaw to put you 
down at Victawria Street." It is a national trait of ours to give proper names fair, 
appallingly fair, play; but High Holborn, as she is spelled, has little to do with the 
Eye Ob'n of historic tradition. Twickenham, Burnham, and Buckingham are briefer 

Gl 



&nd less porcine than they look; to insist upon the "ham" is neither brave, polite, 
nor wise. 

On the other hand, be circumspect and meek ; and, though you shorten syllables, offer 
no violence to whole phrases. Should you desire a copy of the London Daily News, ask 
for it in so many words ; for " News, please," with a proffered penny, is so much Greek to 
the average vender. 

There is one idiom, " Thank you," which will sound new and sweet enough in the 
ears attuned to our informal speech, where a certain chivalry is indeed taken for 
granted. Let it be acquired, and imported hither ; Mr. McKinley shall not tax it, nor the 
Senate shut it out. It shall become common as flour, and precious as opal; and the 
children of the spirit of 76 shall inherit it even as a little city tailor, who, on being 
severely reproved the third time for the cut of a hopeless garment, heard to the end his 
fair vexed customer from New York, and answered her like a silver bell: "Yes, Miss; 
thank you ! " 

Some social philosopher discovered long ago the fact which is of the purest philologi- 
cal interest : that well-bred people, yonder and here, approach, in proportion to their 
culture, a common standard of conversation. Hodge of Yorkshire and Jonathan of 
Winnipiseogee must have difficulties forever more in exchanging a good-morrow ; but 
the nobler ways of speech are open between mind and mind. 

BIBLIOGRAPHY. 

M I will read politic authors." — Twelfth Night. 

One who has time for browsing in the British Museum may easily obtain a reading 
ticket by presenting a letter of recommendation from a London householder. 

Baedeker's guide-books for Great Britain and London will be found most satisfac- 
tory. They can be purchased more cheaply on the other side than here, but it will far 
over-balance the difference in price to have them at hand long before sailing, for prelim- 
inary study and arrangement of plans. "Murray" is perhaps less practical, but brims 
over with accurate information. 

62 



Black's Guides, the "Satchel Guide" (Houghton & Mifflin), Baddeley & Ward's 
"Thorough Guides" (to all places heart can wish), and Jenkinson's "Guide to the 
English Lakes," are thoroughly reliable, though perhaps Baedeker needs no supplement- 
ing, except by general reading. Buy everywhere the local shilling guides. If you have 
time before sailing for a leisurely course of study, read : — 

" The Year Book," Wm. Hone. (Contains notes on old customs, all interesting, 
but many obsolete). 

" Americanisms and Briticisms," (clever antitheses), Brander Matthews. 

"A Short History of the English People," J. R. Green. 

"Early Britain," Prof. A. J. Church. 

44 Lives of the Queens of England," Agnes Strickland. 

" Merrill's English History," George Curry. (Concise and reliable). 

"Bygone England: Social Studies in Her Historic Highways and Byways," Wm, 
Andrew. 

" English Tours and Districts," E. A. Freeman. (Everything by Freeman and Green 
abundantly repays hard study). 

" Our Own Country" (Cassell & Co., 6 vols.). 

The "Historic Towns" Series, (London, Exeter, the Cinque Ports, Bristol, Oxford, 
Colchester, etc.). 

" Notes on England," H. A. Taine. 

" Old England," J. M. Hoppin. 

"A Trip to England," Goldwin Smith. 

" The Early History of Coffee Houses in England," W. F. Robinson, and "London 
Signs and Inscriptions," are full of antiquarian interest. 

" A History of English Dress from the Saxon Period to the Present Day," Georgiana 
Hill. 

" London," Walter Besant. (Picturesque, and as interesting as fiction). 

" London of To-day," C. E. Pascoe. 

" Walks in London," A. J. C. Hare. 

" Memorials of the Tower of London," De Ros. ■-•_■ 

63 



u The Inns of Court and Chancery," W. J. Loftie. 

" Storied Canterbury," Dean Stanley. (Historical memorials ; a beautiful book). 

" Memorials of Westminster Abbey," Dean Stanley. 

" The Rural Life of England," and " Homes and Haunts of English Poets," William 
Howitt. 

" Our Old Home," and "English Note-Books," Nathaniel Hawthorne. 

"English Traits," R. W. Emerson. 

" England Without and Within," Richard Grant White. 

11 English Folk-Lore and Legends," published by W. W. Gibbings, London. 

" Shakespeare's England," and " Gray Days and Gold," William Winter. 

" Cathedral Days" (a driving tour), Mrs. Dodd. 

"Portraits of Places," Henry James. 

11 Abbeys, Castles, and Ancient Halls of England and Wales," J. Timbs. 

" Glimpses of Old English Homes," Elizabeth Balch. 

" A Tour Round England," Walter Thornbury. 

" The Sketch-Book, " Washington Irving. 

"Great Public Schools" (Eton, Harrow, Charterhouse, Cheltenham, Rugby, Clifton, 
Westminster, Marlborough, Haileybury, Winchester). Published by Edward Arnold, 
London. 

" Rambles Round Rugby," Alfred Rimmer. 

" Rambles Round Eton and Harrow," Alfred Rimmer. 

" School-Life at Winchester College," R. B. Mansfield. 

" Wales and Cornwall," Owen M. Edwards. 

" Welsh Pictures" (illustrated). Edited by Richard Lovett, M. A. 

" Views in North Wales," W. J. Loftie. 

" Picturesque Guide to Wales," Black. 

" The Picturesque Tourist of Scotland," Black. 

" The Story of Scotland," John Mackintosh. 

"Royal Edinburgh," Mrs. Oliphant. 

" Literary Landmarks of Edinburgh," Laurence Hutton. 

64 



c< Old and New Edinburgh." (Cassell & Co.). 

"Edinburgh Sketches and Memories," David Masson. (The author, professor of 
literature in Edinburgh University, has a fund of personal reminiscence, and knows how 
to set it forth.) 

" Scenery of Scotland," A. Geikie. 

" The Story of Ireland," Hon. Emily Lawless. 

" Our Journey to the Hebrides," J. and E. R. Pennell. 

" The Stream of Pleasure " (Thames), J. and E. R. Pennell. 

" The Warwickshire Avon," A. T. Quiller-Couch. 

As to poetry, Scott is rich in legend, and Wordsworth's " Excursion " might serve as 
a wanderer's guide. It will not, indeed, be amiss to shake hands over again with all the 
Lake School. 

For the study of architecture, J. H. Parker's "A B C of Gothic Architecture " is 
excellent and compact as a popular guide. His "Introduction to the Study of Gothic 
Architecture " is a text-book well worth conning. 

" Our National Cathedrals" (3 vols.), published by Ward, Lock & Co., is very valu- 
able, and Edward T. Cook's "Hand-book to the National Gallery" both accurate and 
delightfully explanatory. 

A " Hand-book to the Cathedrals" (6 vols.), published by Murray & Co., is a wonder- 
ful guide for those who wish to make a close study. 

•' English Cathedrals," M. G. Van Rensselaer. 

" Inigo Jones and Wren," W. J. Loftie. 

" The Age of Chivalry" (King Arthur), T. Bulfinch. 

" Morte d' Arthur," Sir Thomas Malory, (Cornwall and Wales). 

" Idyls of the King," Alfred Tennyson. 

" An Arthurian Journey," Atlantic Monthly, June, 1890. 

" Poems," R. S. Hawker (vicar of Morwenstow, Cornwall). 

" An Unsentimental Journey through Cornwall," D. M. Craik. 

"By-gone Days in Devonshire and Cornwall," Mrs. II. P. Whitcombe, and "The 
Tamar and the Tavy," Mrs. Bray, are full of the folk-lore and traditions of Devon and 
its sister county. 

65 



"An Exploration of Exmoor," J. L. W. Page. 

" An Exploration of Dartmoor," J. L. W. Page. 

" A Coach-Drive at the Lakes," Rev. H. D. Rawnsley. 

" An Old Woman's Outlook in a Hampshire Village" (rambling but never colorless 
chronicles of country life), Charlotte M. Yonge. 

" Nooks and Corners of Herefordshire," H. Thornhill Timmins. 

11 The Yorkshire Coast," John Leyland. 

" Lancashire," Leo H. Grindon. 

" Heroes of the Goodwin Sands," Rev. Thomas Stanley Treanor. (True tales of the 
fisher-folk who live for life saving). 

" Prose Idylls," Charles Kiugsley (Devonshire). 

" Poems of Places," edited by H. W. Longfellow. (Many refer to England). 

" Sir Francis Drake," Julian Corbett (Devonshire). 

" The Little Manx Nation," Hall Caine. 

For the literary pilgrim, there is set in every library a rich and noble feast. She may 
read : — 

"Yarrow : Its Poets and Poetry," R. Borland. 

" About England with Dickens," A. Rimmer. 

11 A Week's Tramp in Dickens Land," Wm. R. Hughes. 

" Scenes from the George Eliot Country," S. Parkinson. 

" Footsteps of Dr. Johnson in Scotland," G. B. Hill. 

" In Tennyson Land," J. C. Walters. 

" Records of Tennyson, Buskin, Browning" (personal and delightful), Anne Thack- 
eray Ritchie. 

"Literary Shrines of Yorkshire" (a selection of localities for their poetic interest), J. 
A. Erskine Stuart. 

" The Bronte Country," J. A. Erskine Stuart. 

" Life of Charlotte Bronte," Mrs. Gaskell. 

" The Brontes in Ireland," Wm. Wright. 

11 Thackeray's London," W. H. Rideing. 

66 



" Abbotsford and Newstead Abbey," Washington Irving. 

" The English Lake District as Interpreted in the Poems of Wordsworth," Wm. 
Knight. 

" A Pickwickian Pilgrimage," J. R. G. Hassard. 

" In the Footprints of Charles Lamb," B. E. Martin. 

"Angelica Kaufftnann," F. A. Gerard. An entertaining biography, fitted for 
companion-piece to Miss Thackeray's " Miss Angel." 

" An American Girl in London," S. J. Duncan, is full of amusing imaginary experi- 
ences. 

There is a liberal education to be had in a study of English novels ; those who have 
long steeped their souls in this delightful atmosphere have a knowledge not to be despised 
concerning customs and people. Read Scott, Thackeray, Dickens, George Eliot, Jane 
Austen, William Black, Blackmore, and George MacDonald. 

" Westward Ho," Charles Kingsley, is a glowing portraiture of Devon and Devon 
lads. 

" Hereward" belongs to Cambridgeshire. 

The " Wessex"of Hardy's novels is Dorsetshire. His " Casterbridge " is Dorches- 
ter. Some important scenes of Jane Austen's " Persuasion " are laid at Lyme-Regis. 

"Tessof the D 'Urbevilles " refers to Shaftesbury, Sturminster, Bournemouth, Stone- 
henge, and Winchester. 

Winchester is the scene of much of " The Silence of Dean Maitland." 

If you wish " something cathedrally," as Dickens hath it, read Trollope's Clerical 
Series : " The Warden," "Barchester Towers," " Doctor Thome," " Framley Parsonage," 
" The Small House at Allington," and " Last Chronicle of Barset." 

For Parliamentary life, read his " Can You Forgive Her?" " Phineas Phinn," " Phineas 
Redux," and " The Prime Minister.'' 

" The Bell of Saint Paul's," Walter Besant, has some interesting bits on old London. 
Its scene is laid in modern Southwark. 

"'T was in Trafalgar's Bay," Besant, takes in Lyme-Regis. 

"By Celia's Arbour," Besant (Portsmouth). 

67 



" All Sorts and Conditions of Men," Besant, is inseparably connected with the 
People's Palace of East London. 

" Armorel of Lyonesse," Besant (the Scilly Isles). 

" Three Feathers," William Black, belongs to Cornwall, and " A Princess of Thule " 
to the Hebrides. 

"The Strange Adventures of a Phaeton" is the record of a driving tour; and "The 
Adventures of a House Boat " takes the reader by river and canal through charming 
flower-fringed ways. Black loves best the "north countree," however, and always con- 
trives to draw you thither. 

" The White Company," A. Conan Doyle, is a spirited story of the reign and wars of 
Edward III. 

" Christowell" (Dartmoor), R. Blackmore. 

" Cranford" (Knutsford), Mrs. Gaskell. 

" The Deemster" (the Isle of Man), Hall Caine. 

"Irish Idylls," Jane Barlow. (Wonderful and pathetic pictures of peasant life). 

"A Window in Thrums" (Kirriemuir) " Auld Licht Idylls" and "The Little Minis- 
ter," J. M. Barrie, are romantic yet faithful transcripts of homely Scottish life. 

Last, and supreme in a Svveet kingdom all its own, is " Lorna Doone," Blackmore, be- 
longing to Devonshire, and better even than " clotted cream." 

If the tourist longs to know the actual face of nature, let her buy and feed upon " A 
Short Geography of the British Islands," J. R. and A. S. Green. This is a popular view 
of the physical features of the country. 

" Geikie's Geology " is an excellent though somewhat cumbersome text-book. 

All Richard Jefferies' wonderful volumes, " The Open Air," " The Life of the Fields," 
" Nature near London," " Field and Hedgerow," etc., are handbooks of the beautiful. 

"The Natural History of Selborne" (Hants;, Gilbert White. 

" Colin Clout's Calendar," Grant Allen. 

"Lane and Field," Rev. J. G. Wood. 

Napier's " Lakes and Rivers" (in the series of Natural History Rambles). All these 
are helps to spelling Nature's meaning. 

68 



No more delightful roaming can be imagined than by following winding ways through 
Warwickshire, in search of Shakespeare's flowers. The " Plant-Lore of Shakespeare," H. 
N. Ellacombe, will serve as an all-knowing guide. Buy also an English botany (John's, 
Sowerby's, or Babiugton's), and make your own discoveries. 

These fragmentary hints are written with an especial tenderness for the woman with 
a hobby; for it is she who will make her stay in England one charmed progress, full of 
" sweet content." If she is a cyclist, she will find English roads a delight to the wheel. 
Machines may be hired in almost any large town. It is advisable to join the Cyclists' 
Touring Club. The United States' chief consul is Mr. F. W. Weston, Savin Hill, Boston. 
The London office is at 47 Victoria Street, Westminster, S. W. The " Handbook of the 
Club" (sold to members only) contains a list of hotels, the addresses of consuls (local 
wheelmen who are prepared to aid members in every way), cycle repairers, and much 
further information. 

Many hotels have dark rooms for the use of the travelling photographer. No one, in 
these days, need be told where to go for information as to camera and general outfit. 

It is wise, before making a European trip, to obtain from one's family physician a list 
of American practitioners in foreign cities. A list of American dentists is also desirable. 
Failing this, however, one may find the address of such physicians at Galignani's 
bookstore, where may also be found the address of teachers of foreign languages, and 
other information likely to be of use to the English-speaking traveller. Galignani's 
Messenger is the standard English paper on the Continent. 



CONTINENTAL SUPPLEMENT. 



ACROSS THE CHANNEL. 

44 The heavens give safety to your purposes." — Measure for Measure. 

Some unfortunate travellers have learned, after a tour full of annoyance and barren 
of profit, that it is fatally easy, in a continent where temperature ranges through as wide 
a scale as in Europe, to visit all its points of interest at precisely the wrong season. To 
be sure, May is a beauty and delight nearly everywhere, whether at Rome, Paris, or Berlin, 
but unfortunately we cannot move about at swallow speed, and therefore must devote 
ourselves to painstaking study of other times and seasons. If the traveller in England 
have more than a summer at her disposal, let her remember that the gayety and good 
cheer of "the season" begin to prevail in London about that month "when hawthorn 
buds appear " ; that Scotland, delightful as it is in August and September, would be found 
very misty and chilling in the late fall and winter, and that the idler who is not the slave 
of time or place should seek the southern coast of England (Cornwall or Devon), or the 
Isle of Wight, if she is bent on passing the winter months in Her Majesty's dominions. 
Paris, in May, has on a clean and showy gown of horse-chestnut blossoms, and is at her 
best. The Salon opens with the month, theatres are in full swing, and chattering mod- 
istes oil their tongues anew to overcome the scruples of the American Madame who looks 
at her purse as well as at the shop-windows. Towards the first of October, a raw and 
penetrating chill is likely to settle down upon this city, where, despite its delights, the 
American radiator and " hole in the floor " are too rare, and where firewood might almost 
serve as a king's ransom. Yet southern France, like southern England, is a paradise for 

70 



winter idlers ; and he who steps from Nice into Italy, and follows the Riviera in its jew- 
elled progress along the Mediterranean, may well forget England's fog and the winds of 
our eastern seaboard. 

It is the accepted idea that central and southern Italy should be visited from October to 
April, but, as " Murray" suggests, the scenery is in full perfection from May to Septem- 
ber, and the daring and enthusiastic, who are willing to take every possible precaution 
against bodily ill, may safely brave its malaria, daily heat, and nightly dampness. Of 
course the mountainous districts, together with northern Italy and Switzerland, are fitted 
for summer visits as a hand to a glove, but Rome, Florence, and even Naples may be seen 
in hot weather, at least by the strong and sensible. Let her who feels equal to fighting 
wind and weather resolve not to rush about and get overtired, to drink no iced water, to 
close her windows at night, — especially during the hours after twelve, — to rest after the 
mid-day meal, to carry a wrap when visiting subterranean grottos or mouldy churches, 
and, if possible, to wear silk or flannel undergarments. Let her avoid sudden cold and 
dampness as she would the fiend, and carry everywhere, as a part of her outfit, a com- 
fortable box of two-grain quinine pills, to be taken, one every three hours, if she is 
threatened with a chill. Thus protected by her own good sense, she may taste the Italian 
summer, though she must be hardy indeed to venture, as some have done, as far as 
Sicily, where Taormina and Girgenti are spots of picturesque delight, and where the 
daily living is very cheap. It is only fair to say that summer in Italy has its own com- 
pensations, for prices are lower, the hotels less crowded, and the churches, palaces, 
and picture-galleries exceedingly comfortable. 

June in Venice is ideal, and though July and August are less so, the summer traveller 
who feels that " see Venice and die " is but the sober statement of a sensible ambition 
may actually accomplish it and still live. Norway and Sweden are green paradises in 
summer, and Germany is then a land of delight. As to the latter, remember that it has 
its Bayreuth Festival (for which, in obtaining tickets, one must "be up betimes"), its 
grape-cures, and medicinal springs. Moreover, in winter-time, you may there join in 
many a sweet and quaint custom connected with Christmas-tide. Holland should be 
visited in the summer. In May, the tulips are in luxuriance of bloom ; and the lover of 

71 



flowers or colors should make even a brief trip to Haarlem, for the feasting of his eyes. 
Geneva may be wisely chosen for a restful sojourn. Though it has been found every- 
thing that heart could wish in summer, the general verdict pronounces it " too warm." 
The autumn there has also its charms, when the mountains are white with snow ; but one 
must be prepared, in September and October, for a disagreeable wind, which delicate per- 
sons especially should avoid. 

If one must pass the winter in Germany or Italy, she should select some city, for there 
the heating facilities of the houses are likely to be better than in remote country regions. 
Leipsic, Berlin, and Dresden are charming winter quarters for people who can actually 
settle down either for work or amusement. In these German cities, one may have the 
best music, and much of it, at moderate prices. Berlin, especially, is wonderfully well 
adapted to the serious student of all nationalities ; it has a fine museum, a free library from 
which one can take six books at a time (to be kept a month) , and there are, constantly, 
lectures on all sorts of subjects. Dresden, which is thronged with Americans, is some- 
what less serious in its mental atmosphere, and seems rather adapted to the pleasure- 
loving foreigner than the studious one. If you would equip yourself with palette and 
easel and sketch your way through Europe, do not feel it necessary to follow the regula- 
tion routes. Normandy and Brittany are old sketching grounds. Dinan, Dinard, Bar- 
bizon, and Grez have had their disciples from of old ; and those who seek a beauty border- 
ing on the placidly grotesque have turned to Holland, her dikes and her mynheers. But 
she who follows the Meuse, will be well rewarded with many a quaint and curious bit, 
and a walking tour in the Black Forest or the Hartz Mountains will result in untold 
riches. Miirren is a spot of great beauty, less frequently visited than other parts of 
Switzlerand. No one needs to be reminded that the Tyrol, the Italian Lakes and the 
Pyrenees have wondrous charms, and that Sicily is to some an abstract of all the beauty 
of Italy. 

The fact that one knows only English need not deter her from visiting foreign lands, 
for the bold Briton has so overrun Europe that his language is now more or less spoken 
everywhere. Nevertheless, it would be idle to say that one unfamiliar with " the tongues " 
will not meet with frequent occasions when she would give half her letter of credit to be 

72 



understood and to understand others. At such seasons of woe she must be content with 
patience, and even allow herself to be " done" with equanimity. A few meagre phrases 
of French and German are not to be despised, and the hand-books mentioned in the 
Bibliography will be found invaluable companions. If, however, the traveller dare not 
venture on a foreign pronunciation, if vowels are a snare, and consonants fearsome things, 
she may at least point out a phrase to him who would gladly bring her hot water or a 
candle, if he but knew what she desired. Let not even those despair to whom Dutch is 
an insuperable obstacle, for the study of English is in Holland a part of a business edu- 
cation, and one may there safely rely on one's mother-tongue. English is also very 
generally understood on the common routes of travel in Norway and Sweden. In many 
Continental railway stations may be found some one who speaks English. Look about 
for him, and let him interpret for yon. 

Passports are not now essential in travelling, but will prove very useful when there is 
need of identification, or in case some of the great powers, like France and Germany, 
should begin to square off at each other. 

In short journeys on the Continent, a woman who must be economical may assuredly 
travel third-class, though it is by no means so desirable as in England. When it is neces- 
sary to spend the night in a train, one should take a first-class ticket. In some cases, 
there are carriages " for women alone," and if these are not marked, one should make 
inquiries of the guard, and ascertain whether he can indicate them. Third-class in 
Germany is both comfortable and respectable, and though there is an axiom, "never 
travel third-class in Italy," one who scorns bodily discomfort can afford to ignore it. 
She will hardly be annoyed, as Italians, as a rule, are most courteous to women. In 
short, third-class on the Continent may be uncomfortable, is likely to be dirty, but is 
sufficiently respectable. Still, it behooves the unprotected woman to keep a sharp eye to 
the possibilities of the journey, and show a quick wit in selecting a carriage where there 
are several sedate-looking persons. If she find one occupied by a brigand suggesting 
Byron's poetry and Italian opera, let her discreetly pass it by. Eemember, also, that 
third-class carriages are sometimes delayed, while the first-class go through at once. 

Make yonr luggage as light as possible, as it is charged for by weight. In most 

73 



countries, fifty pounds only are allowed free of charge. If you find it necessary to take 
a trunk, remember that one of the heavy American variety will prove an expensive trav- 
elling companion during a long trip. It is well to be at the station at least half an hour 
before the train starts, in order to have the luggage weighed. In some cases, none is 
weighed for twenty minutes before the specified hour. Be sure that it is marked for the 
correct destination. Be ready, on approaching frontiers where luggage is searched, with 
keys and open portmanteaus. 

In all cases, mark out your route of travel in advance. That being done, it saves a 
great amount of trouble for inexperienced travellers to buy, in London, Gaze's or Cook's 
tickets for the entire route. An agent of the firm will be found at the railway stations of 
all large towns, waiting to give the tourist any necessary information, or at least to put 
her in a carriage, and send her in the right direction. This advice applies only to railway 
tickets, for many travellers who have bought " hotel coupons" do not report favorably 
of the attention given them by host or servants. 

If, however, the woman tourist prefer to fend for herself, she should be at the railway 
station in ample season, as, in some cases, the ticket office is closed five minutes before 
train time. Moreover, one must be expert in computation, and endeavor to give the exact 
change, as it sometimes happens, especially in Italy, that the correct amount is not 
returned, or that coins of other countries are palmed off on the unsuspecting purchaser. 

It is well to begin a Continental trip with a supply of French gold, which comes 
nearer than any other coinage to being a universal medium of exchange. 

Washing is very cheap on the Continent, but, as the ordinary blanchisseuse uses some 
chemical which destroys the fabric, the wise traveller will wear her stoutest and plainest 
underclothing. 

Lights are charged for, and in some luxurious French hotels the chambermaid lights 
a half dozen or more candles before one enters the bedroom, and these must all be paid 
for if the traveller does not insist that she needs only one, and that the others shall be 
extinguished. In humbler lodgings, one may be allowed to purchase her own candles by 
the dozen. A little folding candlestick, large enough for two candles, often proves useful 
when one must furnish her own light. One who wishes to read in the evening (except in 

74 



Germany, where she "will be given the student lamp) will find a certain nickel candlestick 
with a reflector almost equal to a lamp. 

It is wise, before making a European trip, to obtain from one's family physician a list 
of American practitioners in foreign cities. A list of American dentists is also desirable. 
Failing this, however, one may find the address of such physicians at Galignani's 
bookstore, where may also be found the address of teachers of foreign languages, and 
other information likely to be of use to the English-speaking traveller. Galignani's 
Messenger is the standard English paper on the Continent. 

CONTINENTAL BIBLIOGRAPHY. 

"Your wisdom be your guide." — Henry IV. 

11 Poole's Index to Periodical Literature " contains, alphabetically arranged, the titles 
of all articles published in the leading periodicals. These form a rich library in them- 
selves. 

Baedeker's " Traveller's Manual of Conversation," in English, French, German, and 
Italian, is an excellent phrase-book. It may be supplemented by his " Conversation Dic- 
tionary." 

Another phrase-book, published by Gamier Freres, Paris, includes also Spanish and 
Portuguese. 

" The Reader's Guide to English History," Wm. F. Allen, not only lays out a course 
of reading supplementary to English history, but touches on corresponding periods of 
other countries. 

The poems of Robert Browning are very rich in local references. Mrs. Sutherland 
Orr's " Hand-book" is an invaluable guide. 
Among books of general interest are : — 

" Transatlantic Sketches," Henry James. 

" Abroad Again," and " Over the Ocean," Curtis Guild. 

"A Tramp Trip" (the story of a man who saw Europe on fifty cents a day), Lee 
Meriwether. 

75 



"Afloat and Ashore on the Mediterranean" (descriptions of out-of-the-way places, 
and discussions of social problems by the way), Lee Meriwether. 

" The Great Streets of the World" ( a delightful book). 

11 From Ponkapog to Pesth," T. B. Aldrich. 

" A Roundabout Journey" (Southern Europe), C. D. Warner. 

"In the Levant," C. D. Warner. 

" From the Lakes of Killarney to the Golden Horn," Henry M. Field. 

" On Sunny Shores " (the English Lakes, Wordsworth's Country, Isle of Wight, Tyrol, 
Milan, Verona, Athens, Corinth, and on to the Holy Land), Clinton Scollard. 

"Under Summer Skies" (a poetical note-book kept during a journey from the 
Orient to " the still-vex'd Bermoothes"), Clinton Scollard. 

" Songs of Sunrise Lands " (Egypt, Syria, and Greece), Clinton Scollard. 

" Well- Worn Roads" (Spain, Holland, and Italy), F. Hopkiuson Smith. 

" One Year Abroad," Blanche Willis Howard. 

" Sketches and Studies in Southern Europe," J. A. Symonds. 

" Views Afoot," Bayard Ta} lor. 

" Beaten Paths," E. W. Thompson. 

" Outre-Mer," II. W. Longfellow. • 

11 A Summer in Europe," M. E. Blake. 

" The Danube," F. D. Millet, and "Paddles and Politics down the Danube," Poultney 
Bigelow, are companion volumes. A fleet of canoes took the journey down 
the river from head waters to mouth (1775 miles through Germany, Austria, 
Hungary, Servia, Bulgaria, Roumania, Russia), and while the first book gives the 
impressions of artist aud botanist, the second deals more directly with the 
political relations of the countries. Discursive, but somewhat pleasing. 

Belgium : 

" Les Miserables," Victor Hugo, contains a great Waterloo chapter, and "Vanity 
Fair," Thackeray, a most delightful account of the immortal Becky's generalship 
on that occasion. 

76 



"A Dog of Flanders," and "The Niirnberg Stove" (in the collection callid 

" Bimbi "), by Ouida, are pictures of Flemish Life. 
11 In the Ardennes," K. S. Macquoid. 
" The Land of Rubens," Conrad B. Huet. Translated by Albert V. Vandam. 

France : 

Guizot's "History" (8 large volumes) is the standard one, but Miss Yonge and 

Lacombe have written shorter and most entertaining works. 
" Dr. Brewer's History" is an excellent one-volume reference book. 
" Mediaeval France," Prof. Gustav Masson. 
" France under the Regency," James Breck Perkins. (A picturesque account of an 

interesting period between the accession of Louis XIV. and succession of Louis 

XVI.) 
" Legends of Charlemagne," Thomas Bulflnch, embodies mediaeval life and story. 
" The Song of Roland," translated by John O'Hagan, is the great epic of that time. 
" The French Revolution," and " Diamond Necklace," Thomas Carlyle, are wonderful 

tales dramatically told. 
One may choose between Headley's " Life of Napoleon " and Abbott's larger and more 

glorified biography. 
Among books of French travel are : — 
" Paris," and " Days Near Paris," A. J. C. Hare. 
" French and English " (national traitsj, P. G. Hamerton. 
" The Saone," P. G. Hamerton. 
"French Home Life," Frederick Marshall. 
" An Autumn Holiday on French Rivers," J. L. Molloy. 
" Round my House," P. G. Hamerton. (Rural France). 
" A Little Tour in France," Henry James. 
"Travels with a Donkey in the Ce venues," R. L. Stevenson. 
"France of To-Day," M. Betham-Eclwards. (Describing rural, social and economic 

France.) 

77 



" Holidays in Eastern France," M. Betham-Ed wards. 

"The Roof of France" (Department of the Lozere), M. Betham-Ed wards. 

" A Year in Western France," M. Betham-Edwards. 

11 Through Normandy," K. S. Macquoid. 

" Through Brittany," K. S. Macquoid. » 

" Pictures and Legends from Normandy and Brittany," T. and K. Macquoid. 

"In and Out of Three Normandy Inns," Anna Bowman Dodd. 

"Artistic Travel" fin Normandy, Brittany, the Pyrenees, Spain and Algeria), Henry 
Blackburn. 

"Play in Provence" (incidents of happy travel), J. and E. P. Pennell. 

"In Troubadour Land" (Provence and Languedoc), S. Baring-Gould. 

" Troubadours and Trouveres," Harriet Waters Preston. 

" Mireio," Mistral (Provencal poem). Translated by Harriet Waters Preston. 

"In Praise of Paris " (luminous descriptions written by a lover of the city), Theodore 
Child. 

"Paris Sketch-Book, " W. M. Thackeray. 

"A Legend of Brittany," J. P. Lowell. 

"La Belle Nivernaise" (from Paris to the mouth of the Seine), Daudet. 

Novels: " The Hunchback of Notre Dame" (in connection with study of the great 
cathedral), '-Los MisSrables," and "Ninety-Three" (the latter dealing with the 
Vendean War), and "The Toilers of the Sea" (the Channel Islands), Victor 
Hugo. 

Balzac's novels deal with the social life of the Post-Revolutionary period. 

" Quentin Durward" (Louis XI.), Sir Walter Scott. 

"The Old Regime" (court, salons, theatres), Lady Jackson. (All her books are 
entertaining) . 

"Lous XIV.," Miss Pardoe. 

" A Tale of Two Cities " (Revolutionary period), Charles Dickens. 

" Citoyenne Jacqueline" (same period), Sarah Tytler. 

" Waterloo," and " The Conscript," Erckmann-Chatrian. (All their novels are inter- 
esting). 

78 



In His Name" (Lyons, time of the Waldenses), E. E. Hale. 

The Art Student in Paris" (apply to the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston), and 
" Studying Art Abroad," May Alcott Nieriker, are valuable guides. 



Germany : 



" The most feminine book ever written on Germany was written by a man — Heine ; 
the most masculine book written, up to a certain date, on Germany, was written 
by a woman — Madame de Stael. If we add to these the ' Germania ' of Tacitus, 
written by a giant, we have a trio of books running over eighteen hundred years, 
more interesting, perhaps, than any others ever devoted to any one country by 
persons of three different nationalities." — New York Critic. These, however, are 
for the student who has time to step outside the beaten track, to read critically 
and enjoy a pure literary flavor. 

" The Story of Germany," S. Baring-Gould. 

"The Niebelimgen Lied " (translated by J. Birchj* 

" Study of the Niebelungen Lied," M. E. Burt. 

Review the works of the great literary period (close of the eighteenth and beginning 
of the nineteenth centuries) , — Herder, Goethe, and Schiller. 

" Life of Goethe," G. H. Lewes. 

"Life of Martin Luther," C. C. J. von Bunsen. 

"Germany Past and Present," S. Baring-Gould. 

" Holidays in North Germany and Scandinavia," Percy Lindley. 

" Our Wherry in Wendish Lands : (from Friesland through the Mecklenburg Lakes 
to Bohemia), H. M. Doughty. 

" A Trip to the Brocken," H. Heine. 

" In the Black Forest," Charles W. Wood. 

" The Black Forest," L. G. Seguin. 

" The Rhine," F. K. Hunt. 

" Music Study in Germany," Amy Fay. 

79 



" Bits of Travel," Helen Hunt. 

"Wagner's Art-Life and Theories" (translated by E. L. Burlingame), forms a worthy 

prelude to a stay at Bayreuth. 
A guide through the ' ' Niebelungen " (translated by N. H. Dole) , and ' ' Parsifal " 

(translated by J. H. Cornell), are reliable companion books to those operas. 
" Parsifal at Bayreuth," The N e w Englander, January, 1885. 
"Wagner at Bayreuth," Scribner's Magazine, July, 1876. 
"The Bayreuth Performances," All the Year Bound, Sept. 23, 1876. 
Novels: " The Initials " and " Quits," Baroness Tautphceus. 
" On the Heights," Auerbach. 

" Napoleon and the Queen of Prussia," Miss Muhlbach. 
" Berlin and Sans-Souci," Miss Muhlbach. 
" Frederick the Great," Miss Muhlbach. 

And so on through a series of vivid French and German titles. 
" Greifenstein," F. Marion Crawford. 
"The First Violin," Jessie Fothergill. 
" Titan" and " Hesperus," Jean Paul Kichter, and " Wilhelm Meister," Goethe, are 

great prose romances only to be attempted by the elect. E. Marlitt's novels are 

interesting pictures of German life. 
" The Dove in the Eagle's Nest" (Germany in the sixteenth century), Miss Yonge. 
" Hyperion," H. W. Longfellow. 
"The Schouberg-Cotta family" (time of Luther), Mrs. Charles. 



Greece 



Even the hurried visitor needs here to have studied the myths and legends of the 
country. She should have read the "Iliad" and "Odyssey" (Bryant's transla- 
tion), and have made herself familiar with Bulflnch's " Age of Fable." If she 
has read the great dramatists, iEschylus, Sophocles, and Euripides, so much the 
better. 

80 



" The Story of Greece," James A. Harrison. 

" A History of Greece " (to 445 B. C, exhaustive and scholarly), Evelyn Abbott. 

" Greece and the Greeks. A Historic Sketch of Atbic Life and Manners," Hon. 

Thomas Talbot. (A popular account of the manner of life in Ancient Greece). 
"New Chapters in Greek History: Historical Results of Recent Explorations in 

Greece and Asia Minor," Percy Gardner. 
" Excursions in Greece : A Popular Account of the Results of Recent Excavations," 

Charles Diehl. 
"Stories from the Greek Comedians" (the pith of old tales, cleverly presented), 

Prof. A. J. Church. 
" Studies of the Greek poets," J. A. Symonds, is a beautiful though exacting book. 
"Lectures on Greece," C. C. Eelton, is a standard work. 
Read, at least, Mrs. Mitchell's description of the Parthenon and its neighbors, in her 

" History of Ancient Sculpture." 
" Balaustion's Adventure " (The Peloponnesian War) and " Pheidippides " (Marathon) , 

Robert Browning, are great and wonderful tales in verse. 
"The Greeks of To-Day, " Charles K. Tuckerman, and "Impressions of Greece," Sir 

Thomas Wyse, are books of general interest. 

Holland : 

" Holland and Its People," Edmondo de Amicis. 

" The Rise of the Dutch Republic," and " John of Barneveld," J. L. Motley. 

" The Story of Holland," Prof. J. Thorold-Rogers. 

" Sketching Rambles in Holland," George H. Boughton. 

" Picturesque Holland," Henry Havard. 

" Hans Brinker" (a charming picture of life in Holland), Mary Mapes Dodge. 

"The Cloister and the Hearth" (the greatest of novels), Charles Reade, takes in the 

Holland, Germany and Rome of the Middle Ages. 
"The Sin of Joost Aveling," " God's Fool," " The Greater Glory," Maarten Maar- 

tens, are strong novels. 

81 



Italy : 

One who would know Italy, her literature, art, and history, needs at least two life- 
times of study. To review one great period or read a few biographies is, how- 
ever, well worth the doing. 
For serious study (and art in general is considered here, though the books indicated 

may touch upon other countries) : — 
11 History of Architecture," J. Fergusson. 

A companion volume to this is " The Chronology of Mediaeval Architecture." 
M. Viollet-le-Duc's works on Architecture (in French) are exhaustive and scholarly. 
" Discourses on Architecture," E. E. Viollet-le-Duc. Translated by Henry Van Brunt. 
"Historical Handbook of Italian Sculpture," "Italian Sculptors," and "Tuscan 

Sculptors," Charles C. Perkins, are comprehensive and reliable. 
" History of Sculpture," Dr. Wilhelrn Liibke. 
Eugene Muentz's histories of the French and Italian Renaissance (in French) are very 

fine. 
" Handbook of Painting " (Italian Schools. Thoroughly revised and in part rewritten 

by A. H. Layard), .Dr. Franz Kugler. " Handbook of Painting" (German, Flemish 

and Dutch Schools), Dr. Franz Kugler. 
"Italian Painters in German Galleries" (a critical study of the pictures in the 

galleries of Munich and Dresden), Giovanui Morelli. 
" Italian Painters (Borghese and Doria Pamphili Galleries in Rome), Giovanni 

Morelli. 
" Brick and Marble in the Middle Ages," G. E. Street. (A student's journey from 

Basel through Verona, Venice, Mantua, Padua, Milan, etc.). 
Edward J. Poynter's "Text-Books of Art" have the merit of being "portable." 

They include German, Flemish and Dutch Art; French and Spanish Art; Classic 

and Italian Art. 
" Symbolism in Christian Art," F. Edward Hulme. 
"Old Italian Masters," J. Cole. (Fine engravings, with notes, from the Century 

Magazine). 



The student with time before her may read : — 

" A History of Ancient Sculpture," Lucy M. Mitchell. (More entertaining than 

Liibke's). 
11 Stories of the Italian Artists," Vasari. 
"Life of St. Paul," Canon Farrar (before seeking out the localities in Rome), and 

Lessing's Laocoon " (translated by E. Frothingham) , an essay on the limits of 

painting and poetry. 
" The Story of Rome," Arthur Gilman. 
"Lays of Ancient Rome," T. B. Macaulay. 
" Roman Legends," R. H. Busk. 
" Roman Life in the Days of Cicero " and " Pictures from Roman Life and Story," 

(from Augustus to Marcus Aurelius), Prof. A. J. Church. The descriptions are 

vivid and the style familiar and iutimate. 
A story or two, like Graham's " Neaera," or Mrs. Marshall's "No. XIII.," on the 

early Christians, will prove valuable. 
" The Roman and the Teuton," Charles Kingsley, and " The Story of the Goths," 

Henry Bradlej r , picture the separation of the Empire and the fall of Rome. 
Oswald's " Dragon of the North" shows the Norman influence in Italy in the eleventh 

century. 
" St. Francis of Assisi" an important figure in the religion, literature, and art of the 

twelfth century), Mrs. Oliphant. 
" The Divine Comedy," Dante Alighieri (translate 1 by Cary or Longfellow). 
" Dante," J. R. Lowell. (Essay in " My Study Window " ). 
"Life of Dante," M. A. Ward. 

" A Shadow of Dante," Maria Francesca Rossetti (study of his life and work). 
" Dante and His Circle," D. G. Rossetti. (Translations from the Italian poets of the 

thirteenth and fourteenth centuries). 
"Life and Times of Michaelangelo Buonarotti," J. A. Symonds. (Delightful, like 

all his work). 
" Life of Michael Angelo," Grimm. 

83 



" Michael Angelo's Sonnets." J. A. Symonds. 

" Life of Vittoria Colonna," Mrs. Roscoe. 

"Savonarola," Villari. 

For art study and legends : — 

Mrs. Jameson's " Sacred and Legendary Art," " Legends of the Madonna," " Legends 
of the Monastic Orders," and " Memoirs of the Early Italian Painters." 

" The Makers of Venice," Mrs. Oliphant. 

"The City in the Sea" (from the old Venetian chronicles). 

"Venice: An Historical Sketch of the Republic," Horatio F. Brown. (1 vol., large 
and entertaining). 

"Venetian Life," W. D. Howells. 

*' The Makers of Florence," Mrs. Oliphant. 

" The Lily of the Arno " (Florence), Virginia W. Johnson. 

"Echoes of Old Florence: Her Palaces and Those Who Have Lived in Them," 
Leader Scott. 

" Florence and the Medici," J. A. Symonds. LittelVs Living Age for Jan. 12 and April 
6, 1878. (A short and clear account of the Guelph and Ghibelline factions). 

" Sicily," E. A. Freeman. 

11 Cities of Southern Italy and Sicily," A. J. C. Hare. 

" Ancient Rome in the Light of Recent Discoveries," Rodolfo Lanciani. 

" Pagan and Christian Rome," Rodolfo Lanciani. 

11 Walks in Rome," A. J. C. Hare. 

" Walks in Florence," J. Horner. 

" Old Rome and New Italy," Emilio Castelar. 

" Homes and Haunts of the Italian Poets," Francis E. and T. Adolphus Trollope. 

" Genoa the Superb," Virginia W. Johnson. 
The " Great Artist Series." 

" The Renaissance in Italy " (very long and very delightful), J. A. Symonds. 

" The Civilization of the Renaissance," J. Buickhardt. (His " Cicerone" is an inval- 
uable guide to the works of art in Italy. 

84 



Books of general interest are : — 

" Robadi Roma," and " Castle St. Angelo," W. W. Story. 

11 Italian Journeys " and " Tuscan Cities," W. D. Howells. 

" Two Pilgrims' Progress " (Florence to Rome by tricycle), J. and E. R. Penncll. 

" Sketches in Italy and Greece," " Italian Byways," and " Sketches and Studies in 

Italy," J. A. Symonds. 
11 The Riviera," Henry Alford. 
" Roman Mosaics," Hugh Macmillan. 

" Christ's Folk in the Apennine" (peasant life), Francesca Alexander. 
" The Improvisatore," Hans Christian Andersen. 
"Days Spent on a Doge's Farm" (beautiful and poetic pictures of country life in 

Italy), Margaret Symonds. 
Novels : " Romola" (time of Savonarola), George Eliot. 
" The Betrothed " (Milan, seventeenth century), Alessandro Manzoni. 
" My Prisons" (story of a prisoner in Italy, nineteenth century), Silvio Pellico. 
" Consuelo " (wanderings of a singer in Germany and Italy), George Sand. 
"Beatrice Cenci," Guerrazzi. 
"Last Days of Pompeii" and "Rienzi" (fourteenth century), Sir Edward Bui we r- 

Lytton. 
" The Marble Faun " (Rome), Nathaniel Hawthorne. 
" Doctor Antonio " (the Riviera), G. Ruffini. 
11 A Foregone Conclusion" (Venice), W. D. Howells. 
"A Roman Singer," " Saracinesca," " Sant' Ilario," "Don Orsino," and " Children 

of the King," F. Marion Crawford. 
" Penelope's "Web" (Sorrento), L. "W. Jennison. 
" Agnes of Sorrento," Mrs. Stowe. 
" Sign or Monaldini's Niece," "By the Tiber," "The Jewel in the Lotos," and 

"Aurora," M. A. Tincker. 
11 Fiammetta," W. W. Story. 
" Vittoria," George Meredith. 

85 



" Graziella" (a story of Italian love, Naples), Lamartine. 

" The Chevalier of Pensieri-Vani," Henry B. Fuller. 

" Italian Child Life " (simply and interestingly told), Marietta Ambrosi. 

" Pascarel " (for the " atmosphere " of Florence), Ouida. 

Norway and Sweden: 

One will lose much in ancient Scandinavia if she does not know something about its 

mythology. For the students there are : — 
" Norse Mythology" (dealing with the myths of the Eddas), and " Viking Tales of 

the North" (the sagas), Rasmus B. Anderson. 
" Fridthjof's Saga" (tales by Holcomb and Lyon). 
For those who must run as well as read, Bulfinch's " Age of Fable " contains a brief 

summary of the northern myths. 
11 The Story of Norway," II. H. Boyesen. 
" Charles XII. of Sweden," published by A. C. McClurg & Co. 
" Feats on the Fiord," H. Martineau. 
" The Land of the Midnight Sun," P. Du Chaillu. 
" The Story of a Scandinavian Summer," Katharine E. Tyler. 
" The Midnight Sun, the Tsar, and the Nihilist " (Scandinavia and Russia), James M. 

Buckley. 
"Norway Nights and Russian Days," S. M. H. Davis. 
" Gunnar" (Norse Life), H. H. Boyesen. 
Frederika Bremer's works are old-fashioned but delightful. 
" An American in Norway," J. F. Vicary. 
" Norway and the Norwegians," C. F. Keary. 

" Norway in June," Olivia M. Stone. (Interesting as an actual experience of travel). 
" Due North" (Scandinavia and Russia). M. M. Ballou. 
11 Boyhood in Norway," H. H. Boyesen. 
All William Morris's books on the Wolflngs are fine settings of the most precious 

jewels from northern mythology. 

86 



Portugal : 

" The Story of Portugal," H. Morse Stephens. 

"Journal of a Voyage to Lisbon," Henry Fielding. (First published in 1755. A curi- 
ous account of old-time travelling, and valuable from a purely literary point of 
view) . 

Russia : 

11 The Story of Russia," W. R. Morflll. 

"Young Folks' History of Russia," N. H. Dole. 

" Studies in Russia," A. J. C. Hare. 

"A Journey Due North," G. A. Sala. 

" Russia Under the Tzars," Stepniak. 

" Impressions of Russia," Dr. Georg Brandes. 

11 School-Boy Days in Russia," Andre Laurie. (Translated by Laura E. Kendall. An 

entertaining picture of juvenile life; written for boys). 
11 AnnaKarenina," " Peace and War," and " Ivau Ilyitch " are Tolstoi's great books. 
For other novels read Turgenef, Dostoievsky, and Gogol. 

Spain : 

" The Story of Spain," E. E. and S. Hale. 

" Spain and the Spaniards," Edmondo de Amicis. 

11 The Moors in Spain," Stanley Lane-Poole. 

" Chronicle of the Conquest of Granada," Washington Irving. 

11 Gothic Architecture in Spain," G. E. Street. 

For the student of great periods : — 

"History of the Reign of Ferdinand and Isabella," and " Philip II.," W. H. Prescott, 

and Robertson's " Charles V." 
" The Alhambra." Washington Irving. 

Books of travel, dealing with manners, customs, and gossip, are : — 
" Wanderings in Spain," A. J. C. Hare. 

87 



" Spanish Cities," Charles Augustus Stoddard. 
" Spain of Today," W. R. Lawson. 
"Notes on Spain," St. G. Mivart. 

" Spain and Morocco" (studies in local color), Henry T. Finck. 
" Seven Spanish Cities," E. E. Hale. 
" A Family Flight Through Spain," E. E. and S. Hale. 
" In Spain and Portugal," Plans Christian Andersen. 
" The Bible in Spain," and "The Gipsies of Spain," George Borrow. 
" On Foot in Spain," J. C. Campion. 
" Castilian Days," John Hay. 
11 Spanish Vistas," G. P. Lathrop. 
11 Ten Days in Spain," Kate Field. 

For those to whom the ideal and romantic are greater than fact remain : — 
" Don Quixote," and the " Cid " (Spain's great mediaeval epic). 

11 The Marquis of Peiialta," " Maximiua," and " Sister St. Sulpice," by V aides, trans- 
lated by N. H. Dole, are entertaining novels of Spanish life. 

Switzerland : 

" The Story of Switzerland," R. Stead and Mrs. A. Hug. 
" The Prisoner of Chillon," Byron. 
Sketches of Rousseau, Voltaire, and Calvin. 
" William Tell," Schiller. 

" Three Vassar girls in Switzerland," Mrs. Champney. 

" The Chatelaine of La Trinite" (a romantic study in prose of Switzerland and the 
high Alps), Henry B. Fuller. 

Turkey : 

" The Story of Turkey," Stanley Lane-Poole. 

"The Story of the Byzantine Empire," C. W. C. Oman. 



GALA DAYS ON THE CONTINENT. 

" That I might see what the old world could say."— Sonnet. 

The "Satchel Guide " contains a valuable Traveller's Calendar, comprising the most 
important ecclesiastical and popular festivals observed in Europe. 

The "Diario Romano," annually published at the Propaganda Press, Rome, is the 
stranger's calendar for that city. 

Jan. 1. — Holiday in Paris. 

Jan. 17. — St. Anthony's Day. At Rome and Naples, occurs the ceremony of blessing 
the animals. 

April 21. — The birthday of Rome, when the Cor so and Colosseum are illuminated. 

April 25. — St. Mark's Day. Venetian festival. 

The old ten days' Carnival at Rome has been reduced to four. It ends on the evening 
of Shrove Tuesday, with performances at the theatres, masked balls, and an illumination 
of the Corso. 

On Ash Wednesday, high mass is held at St. Peter's, and on Good Friday there is a 
special service — Holy Sepulchre — in the churches of Vienna. The Easter services in 
Italy and Germany are very beautiful. 

During Holy Week, there are interesting services in the churches of the Continent. 

On Whitsunday, crowds of Neapolitans make a pilgrimage to the sanctuary of the 
Madonna di Monte Vergine, near Avellino. 

On Whitmonday, many visit the Madonna del Arco, and return to Naples singing 
songs and dancing the tarantella. 

The first Sunday in June is the " Festival of the Constitution" in Italy. There are 
general rejoicings, illuminations, and a review of the troops. 

Nov. 1. — All Saints' Day. The cemeteries of Rome and Naples are visited by crowds 
of people. 

Nov. 2.— All Souls' Day. The graves in Munich are decked with flowers and lights. 
Dec. 25. — High mass is held at St. Peter's, and there are imposing services in all the 
Continental churches. 



The fountains at Versailles are generally playing on the first Sunday of every month 
from May to October, between four and five. The dates are advertised. 

At Saint Cloud, the fountains play in summer on the second Sunday of every month, 
from four to five, and during the fete of Saint Cloud, the three last Sundays in September. 

At Douai, in July, is a procession of giant dolls, to commemorate the failure of Louis 
XI. to take the city. 

In Brittany, Pardon Masses take place on the fete days of the numerous saints. These 
festivals are attended by quaint customs and much revelry. 

Tickets ($5 each) for the Bayreuth performances can be obtained by applying to the 
Verwaltungsrath der Buhnenfestspiele Bayreuth, Bavaria; telegraphic address, 
Festspiel Bayreuth. 

A remittance of the amount by money order or draft should accompany all orders for 
seats. Apartments at various prices can be secured without extra charge through the 
" Wohnungscommite," the office of which, during the performances, is at the railway 
station. Telegraphic address for apartments, " Wohnung Bayreuth." Applications 
for tickets may also be made to Messrs. Chappell & Co., New Bond Street, London, or to 
Novello, Ewer & Co., 21 East 17th Street, New York City. The latter firm will deliver 
tickets throughout the United States, upon payment of 50 cents in addition to the cost of 
the tickets. 



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